eek
church, and in appearance and dialect do not differ from them. A
bolder look, however, and an air of independence, usually mark the
Montenegrian. Between Cattaro and Montenegro there is no quarantine or
restriction of intercourse. Without the latter the former would cease
to exist--without the former life would be burdensome in Montenegro.
Three times a-week a bazar is held outside each of the land gates, to
which the Montenegrians descend, themselves loaded with arms and
independence, and their women and mules with the richest products of
their country. Of these, mutton hams of peculiar excellence, potatoes
that cannot be imitated in these parts, salt fish from the lake of
Scutari, (to be caught, I fear, no more,) a root which looks yellow,
and dyes to match, with hides, poultry, and pigs, form the principal.
One of the chief articles which they seek is salt, with which some of
the above luxuries are compounded. This being a government monopoly,
is sold at the office in the town, and an animated scene takes place
on its opening, each striving to be served first, and, as a matter of
course, all speaking at once.

Having in a few days almost exhausted the varieties of Cattaro, and
the weather assuming a more favourable aspect, it became time to
execute our intended journey up the mountain. Times were stirring in
Montenegro. The nation was at war with two pashas, and the Vladika had
taken the field in person. Rumours were numerous; we could not have
come at a better time, and our trip promised to be one of interest.
His highness's postmaster, a gigantic warrior,[7] waited on us to
furnish mules and guides. Cesarea Petrarca, gentleman, of Cattaro,
hairdresser, auctioneer, and appraiser, ex-courier, formerly _chef de
cuisine_ to the Vladika--an "_homme capable_," as he not unaptly
styled himself, attended us to cook and interpret; and we started for
Cettigna on the 17th of November, about nine o'clock. I may here say a
few words concerning the state of politics then existing in
Montenegro. For the last half century or more, under the auspices of
the late revered bishop, so highly sainted in soul,[8] and so
beautifully preserved in body, the Montenegrians, backed secretly by
an influential power in the north, have been pursuing a system of
territorial encroachment as well as internal improvement. Anciently
their domain consisted of but a range of gloomy and barren rocks,
which would alike oppose the footsteps and exting