races of
good looks, though withered by the sun and storm of years. It was a
severe test for beauty; but the head of one young man certainly stood
the trial. Fine features, of a cast frequently seen towards the north
of Albania, and a set of the best teeth, (this is very general,)
showed that he might have once been more prosperous in love than he
proved to be in war. I thought of a relic, and took up a skull, the
best I could find, but it was full of red earth, and seemed damp and
unpleasant; so I put it down again. I next discovered a beautiful
tooth; this would have surpassed the former in elegance and
convenience, but I fancied it not either, and came away, trusting to
my mind for a remembrance of the spot. From hence I made a sketch of
the present residence of the bishop, the second among the remarkable
edifices of Cettigna and its environs. It was built within these five
years, under the auspices of no less than my trusty attendant
Petrarca. The style is not, strictly speaking, imposing. Perhaps this
arose from suggestions of economy, or possibly from the mind of the
architect being at that moment unprepared with any other. Simplicity
in design and execution characterize it throughout. It consists of a
long single building of one low story, containing two rows of about
twenty windows on each side. There is a door in the middle, and at
each end a small wing placed crosswise, and a very little higher than
the rest, containing a window above and a door below. Both before and
behind, a large court is enclosed by a low wall of loose stones, with
little turrets at the corners, and two doorways in the principal. In
the front court are some old brass and iron cannon, lying
dismounted--trophies of Turkish war. Behind is an attempted kitchen
garden. The remainder of Cettigna is small, hardly worth
mentioning--six or seven houses with an upper floor, and about twice
as many ordinary huts. This forms the metropolis of Montenegro. But
small as it is, I doubt if there be a bigger village in the country,
the population, though sufficiently numerous, dwelling in small
scattered hamlets. The better houses act as hostelries when called on,
which may be the case when Parliament is sitting; but apart from the
bishop's officials and retainers, the place does not probably contain
a hundred souls. It being now noon, and the rain unabated, we
determined to see all the sights of the city. His highness's residence
was first visited. It con