the matter.
I implored our skipper to keep on, though he tacked to the coast of
Apulia; but he knew his trade too well--the trade of a trabacolo
consisting in never losing sight of shore. So we were obliged to put
in to Avlona harbour, deeply lamenting. Two days were spent here, not
daring to land for fear of putting ourselves in quarantine. Above the
town rises the fortress of Canina, but all wears a ruined appearance.
The people of the neighbourhood, called Chimariots, have the worst
reputation of all the Albanians. The coast of Albania between this and
Corfu has a very barren and inhospitable appearance. The snowy peaks
of the Pindus rise directly from the sea. A few bushes were visible on
the mountains, but timber of any size is scarce. Villages and houses
are seldom seen. A glad contrast was presented when, on the tenth day
of our voyage, we approached the beautiful shores of Corfu; and it was
no small comfort, after so long an imprisonment in this little tub,
with holes to creep in about the size of a dog-kennel, and in the
roughest possible weather, to find ourselves in one of the most
comfortable hotels in Europe, and surrounded by old friends.

Since my visit to Montenegro, the Vladika went to Vienna--I believe to
gain the mediation of Austria concerning the disputed territory of
Lessandro. After his return I understand he was visited by Lord
Clarence Paget, commanding her Majesty's frigate L'Aigle, who had been
sent to gain some information regarding his territory; so that,
perhaps, a more accurate account may be obtained than what is to be
found in these rough notes.

AESTHETICS OF DRESS.

A CASE OF HATS.

Of all the follies that can be fairly placed to the charge of the
human race--and, Heaven knows, they are thick as gnats in a summer
sunbeam--none can be laid at more people's doors than the fickleness
and vagaries of the judgment in adorning, to say nothing of covering,
man's outer scaffolding--the body. And the worst of it is, that this
folly-cap fits all men, from the Red Indian of America to the
sallow-faced, eye-slitted Chinese; and through all the robed pomp of
the solemn Turk to the chattering and capering monkeyism of the
Parisian exquisite--there are fops every where. As Mr Catlin will tell
you, one of his lanky Ojibbeway, or Ioway, or Cutaway, or
Anyotherkindo'way Indians varies the feathers in his head-dress, and
sticks new tinsel on his buffalo-mantle, whenever he can get them;
spe