the portmanteau. When the latter walked, it usually did so on the
head of the poor woman who brought the mule. The remainder of our
luggage consisted of two carpet-bags, and Spiro and Melo slung one of
these upon each of their guns, and proceeded merrily. We entered the
Austrian territory by the village of Braitsch. The people hereabouts
are very poor and ill-off. Our way overlooked the sea; below us lay
Budua. We halted, to give ourselves and the mule a drink, by the fort
of Stanivitch. This was formerly a convent, and under the dominion of
Montenegro; but Austria has lately become possessor of it, through, I
believe, a pecuniary arrangement with the Vladika. His territory,
however, at no time reached the sea in any part, though this is not
distant above two or three miles; it was now a military post. A
Moravian captain was in command, who most politely invited us to stay
the night, fearing we should be unable to reach Cattaro; however, it
was then only four o'clock, the day was bright, and the sight of the
sea encouraged us. Besides, I noticed a _flea_ on the collar of his
coat. We thanked him for his kindness, and persevered on our journey.
Our road lay nearly all on the descent, and while it was good, and the
daylight lasted, we hurried forward with all speed. At length it
became very rocky and precipitous; and, as the light soon failed
entirely, it became necessary to mount the portmanteau, as it was not
possible for any biped to sustain it longer on their head, and to
maintain their equilibrium as well. From very bad, things got to much
worse. The track, as well as the whole country, was composed of
angular grey rocks, among which, in the now total darkness, it became
nearly impossible to discern the path. These stones had a light
appearance, and it was desirable to avoid bringing one's shins in
contact with them; but if a spot seemed dark, and might be imagined to
be soft ground, it proved to be one of the villanous prickly bushes of
the country. This shrub grows all over Albania and Dalmatia, and, I
believe, in Italy; it is low and bushy, with abundance of flat round
seed; the spines are set both ways, up and down the twig, and are the
most malignant thorns I ever met with. Whatever part of your garments
they catch hold of, from that they have never been known to part.
Presently our road became inhabited by a stream of water, and every
step that avoided the stones was ankle-deep in mud. How the mule could
have g