stopped a day and a night, is a walled town of moderate extent, said
to contain 8000 inhabitants. It possesses some antiquities. Over the
gates of this, and all other of the Dalmatian seaports, the Lions of
Saint Mark yet remain. It is best known for the excellence of its
_rosoglio_. The next town we arrived at was Sebenico, now much
decayed, and Spalatro, the most interesting of all, where the badness
of the weather, during the short time we stayed, prevented our landing
to see the extensive Roman remains. After anchoring off Curzola for a
night, we came to Ragusa, where we stopped two days. At Zara and
Sebenico we had opportunities of seeing the Morlaccian race. These are
the rural inhabitants of Dalmatia, speaking a Sclavonic dialect, while
in the towns they pride themselves on their Venetian origin and
language. Amongst these peasants were the noblest specimens of the
human kind I have ever seen. Of stature almost gigantic, and of the
amplest development of chest, their symmetry of limb and elasticity of
step would have called forth notice in a Scottish Highlander. Nor
could a somewhat manifest omission to cares of the toilet disguise
complexion and features almost faultless, and in which an expression
of frankness and good-nature left one nothing to fear from their armed
numbers. I speak not of a few among a crowd, but of nearly all I saw.
It was from amongst these that the French, during their occupation,
chose their finest grenadiers; but at present, in consequence of the
scantiness of the population, the humanity of the Austrian government
has suspended all conscription. Still it is possible, that, in the
hour of danger, Austria might profit more from the devoted loyalty of
this armed and stalwart peasantry, than if her ranks were filled with
its forced recruits. Their dress consists of a coarse brown jacket,
and a waistcoat of red cloth, both ornamented on the edges, and made
to sit close on the shoulders, without any collar, and which
advantageously display their well put on head and neck. They wear a
small red skull-cap, round at top; but, when married, they usually
surround this with a white turban. Their pantaloons are of blue, and
fit close from the knee to the ankle, and below they wear the
_opunka_--a species of sandal, made of sheepskin, and bound with
thongs, which, as may be seen from their elastic step and upright
carriage, are well fitted to their country; round their waist is a red
sash, and in fron