, haddock, and
mackerel, with a dust of flour, and some bits of butter put on them;
eels, when large and stuffed; herrings and sprats, in a brown pan, with
vinegar and a little spice, and tied over with paper. A hare, prepared
the same as for roasting, with a few pieces of butter, and a little drop
of milk put into the dish, and basted several times, will be found
nearly equal to roasting; or cut it up, season it properly, put it into
a jar or pan, and cover it over and bake it in a moderate oven for about
three hours. In the same manner, I have been in the habit of baking legs
and shins of beef, ox cheeks, &c. prepared with a seasoning of onions,
turnips, &c.: they will take about four hours: let them stand till cold,
to skim off the fat; then warm it up all together, or part, as you may
want it.

"All these I have been in the habit of baking for the first families.

"The time each of the above articles should take depends much upon the
state of the oven, and I do consider the baker a sufficient judge; if
they are sent to him in time, he must be very neglectful if they are not
ready at the time they are ordered."

For receipts for making bread, French rolls, muffins, crumpets, Sally
Lunn, &c., see the Appendix.

FOOTNOTES:

[66-*] "The process by which food is most commonly prepared for the
table, BOILING, is so familiar to every one, and its effects are so
uniform, and apparently so simple, that few, I believe, have taken the
trouble to inquire _how_ or _in what manner_ those effects are produced;
and whether any, and what improvements in that branch of cookery are
possible. So little has this matter been an object of inquiry, that few,
very few indeed, I believe, among the _millions of persons_ who for so
many ages have been _daily_ employed in this process, have ever given
themselves the trouble to bestow one serious thought on the subject.

"_Boiling_ cannot be carried on without a very great expense of fuel;
but any boiling-hot liquid (by using proper means for confining the
heat) may be kept _boiling-hot_ for any length of time almost without
any expense of fuel at all.

"_The waste of fuel_ in culinary processes, which arises from making
liquids boil _unnecessarily_, or when nothing more would be necessary
than to keep them _boiling-hot_, is enormous; I have not a doubt but
that much more than half the fuel used in all the kitchens, public and
private, in the whole world, is wasted precisely in this ma