quarter. Near the centre of the old town is
placed a square of considerable size, surrounded by high antiquated
buildings of a most remarkable construction; and the _Hotel de Ville_,
which occupies nearly one of its sides, is ornamented by a high Gothic
spire of the lightest form, and the most exquisite proportions. The
Cathedral is large, and has two massy towers in front; but the effect of
the interior, which would otherwise be very grand, from its immense
size, is much injured by statues affixed to the pillars, and an
intermixture of red and white colours, with which the walls are painted.
In this Cathedral, as well as in the churches throughout Flanders which
we visited, we were much struck by the numbers of people who attended
service, and the earnestness with which they seemed to participate in
religious duty;--a spectacle which was the more impressive, from the
levity or negligence with which we had been accustomed to see similar
services attended in France.
The _Parc_, which is an immense square of splendid buildings, inclosing
a great space, covered with fine timber, is probably the most
magnificent square in Europe. The Royal Palace, and all the houses of
the nobility, are here situated. There is nothing of the kind, either in
Paris or London, which can be compared with this square, either in
extent, the beauty of the private houses, or the richness and variety of
the woods.
At Brussels, we saw 1500 British troops on parade in the great square.
We were particularly struck with the number and brilliant appearance of
the officers. It would be going too far to say, that they understood
their duty better than those of the allied armies; but they
unquestionably have infinitely more of the appearance and manners of
gentlemen. The proportion of officers to privates appeared much greater
than in the other European armies; but the common soldiers had not
nearly so sun-burnt; weather-beaten an appearance. Among the British
troops, the Highlanders resembled most nearly the swarthy aspect of the
foreign soldiers. The discipline of these troops was admirable; they
were much beloved by the inhabitants, who recounted with delight
numerous instances of their humanity and moderation. In this respect
they formed a striking contrast to the Prussians, whose abuses and
voracity were uniformly spoken of in terms of severe reprobation.
The ramparts at Brussels, especially in the upper parts of the town, are
planted with trees,
|