le searching for the money, and fled without taking
any thing of consequence.

It is a very bad arrangement which they have in France, of sending large
sums of money in gold and silver by the mail; for it holds out a much
stronger inducement than would otherwise be given to the robbers. The
mail, in France, is a very heavy coach, and has only three horses. The
roads to-day were worse than any we have yet passed; and the country,
for the first part of our journey, is as dull and insipid as it is
possible to conceive. The soil most wretched, but still producing great
riches in olives, grapes, figs, and mulberries. The grapes are
delightful, even now when almost out of season, and the wine made from
them is very fine. Within a mile or two of Aix, (from the top of a steep
descent over a very barren, and bleak hill), you are delighted with the
most complete change in the scene: In a moment, an extensive valley,
highly cultivated, opens on the view. It is divided into a beautiful
variety of vineyards, wheat fields, gardens, plantations of olives and
figs, and is enclosed by hedge-rows of almond and mulberry trees. Round
the valley rise a succession of romantic hills, covered with woods, and
forming a fine conclusion to the view. It was altogether an enchanting
picture. If this is the case in winter, what must it be in summer? The
town of Aix, situated in this valley, is, as far as we have seen, the
cleanest, neatest, and most comfortable-looking town in France--we are
as yet all delighted with it; but when we shall have seen it for a day
or two, I shall be better able to give an account of it.----Distance 33
miles--to Aix.

CHAPTER II.

RESIDENCE AT AIX, AND JOURNEY TO BOURDEAUX.

MONDAY, the 27th.--Having been employed the whole day in searching for
furnished lodgings, I had no time to ride about and see the town. I
shall describe it afterwards.--I saw, however, a little of the manners
of some ranks of French society.

After this, I went into the best coffeehouse in the town here, and sat
down to read the newspapers. I found in it people of all
descriptions--several of a most unprepossessing appearance, and others
really like gentlemen. One of the best dressed of these last, decorated
with the white cockade and other insignia, and having several rings of
precious stones on his fingers, a watch, with a beautiful assortment of
seals and other trinkets, was playing at Polish drafts, with an officer,
also apparentl