travelling on the road to-day. The
country has nearly the same aspect as in November last. The only
difference is, that the almond trees are in full blossom, and some few
other trees, such as willows, &c. in leaf; the wheat is about half a
foot to a foot high: The day was delightfully mild; and as we drove
along, we met numberless groups of peasants who lined the road, and were
anxiously waiting for their Prince passing by. The road was strewed with
lilies, and the young girls had their laps filled with flowers as we
passed. As we past, they knew us to be English, and shouted Vive le Roi.
We are now in Languedoc, but as yet I cannot say that it equals, or at
all justifies Mrs Radcliffe's description: Flat and insipid plains of
_vignoble_ or wheat. However, there is here, as every where in France,
no want of cultivation. Napoleon had commenced, and nearly finished, a
very fine quay and buttresses between the two bridges of boats. That man
had always grand, though seldom good views. The walls of the inn here
were covered with a mixture of "Vive le Roi!" and "Vive Napoleon!" this
last mostly scratched out. National guards in every town demanded our
passport. These men and the gens-d'armes are running about in every
direction. No courier from Paris arrived here these three days. This
looks ill. The houses are better in appearance than in Provence. The
country very productive: Potatoes the finest I have seen in
France.----Distance 34 miles.
* * *
_Sunday_, 19th.--We left Nismes at six o'clock this morning, and
breakfasted at Lunel, where they appear to be full of loyalty. It was a
subject to us of much regret, that more time was not allowed us to
examine a magnificent Roman amphitheatre, half of which is nearly
entire, although the remaining part is quite ruinous. The troops in the
town were drawn up on the parade, expecting the Duke d'Angouleme. We
received a small printed paper from an officer on the road, containing
the information last received from Paris, which secured us a good
reception at the inn. The people were delighted to procure a piece of
authentic intelligence, (a thing they seldom have); they flocked round
us, and upon their entreaty, I gave them the paper to carry to the
caffee. In the inn we found a number of recruits for the army forming by
the Duke d'Angouleme; it is said that he has already collected at Nismes
nineteen hundred men, all volunteers. The country does not improve in
romantic beauty as
|