and in
every place this gentleman made his patronage of an hotel dependent on
the proprietor's religion, which he frequently knew before we got
there. I saw him last at Mostar in distress, because the only good
hotel was administered by an Israelite of whose religion he
disapproved, and the weather, as it often is at Mostar, was so
oppressingly hot that I suppose he had not energy enough to try to
convert him....

BUNJEVCI, [vS]OKCI AND KRA[vS]OVANI

Perhaps Austria would not have displayed such fervour in creating
Bunjevci, [vS]okci and Kra[vs]ovani if she had known that these Roman
Catholic Slavs would remain, on the whole, very good Slavs. The
Bunjevci, who live for the most part in Ba[vc]ka and Baranja, came
originally from the Buna district of Herzegovina. The total population
of the town of Subotica is 90,000, and 73,000 of these are Bunjevci,
whose peculiarity is that the old father stays in the town house,
while his sons, with their wives and children, drive out on Monday
morning over that rather featureless landscape to the farm, which may
be at a considerable distance, and there they remain till the end of
the week. They are a quiet, industrious people who have lived
withdrawn, as it were, from the world since the twenty-five or thirty
families escaped from the Turks; and as they brought with them only
that number of surnames it is now customary to add a distinguishing
name. Thus the Vojni['c] family has divided into branches, such as
Vojni['c]-Heiduk, Vojni['c]-Kortmi['c], Vojni['c]-Pur[vc]a. The
Bunjevci seem, although Catholics, to incline less to the Croats than
to the Serbs, some of whose customs--those, for instance, of
Christmas--they share. But in merry-making they are a great deal more
subdued, save that, in drinking to some one's health, you are expected
to empty three glasses. In the intervals of a Bunjevci dance at
Subotica men would promenade the room arm-in-arm with men and girls
with girls. The faces of all of them express entire goodness of heart
and absence of guile; many of the girls, who looked like early
portraits of Queen Victoria, were arrayed in the local costume, which
permits great variety of colour so long as the lady wears, I am told,
about fifteen petticoats. These worthy people used to have nothing but
their Church, and are now extremely religious. The man who has most
influence over them is Bla[vs]ko Raji['c], a priest and deputy, who
was not always able to prevent a Hungaria