ve grown beyond bearing, as a fellah said, 'a man can't
(we will express it "blow his nose," if you please; the real phrase was
less parliamentary, and expressive of something at once _ventose_ and
valueless) without a cawass behind him to levy a tax on it.' The
ha'porth of onions we buy in the market is taxed on the spot, and the
fish which the man catches under my window. I paid a tax on buying
charcoal, and another on having it weighed. People are terribly beaten
to get next year's taxes out of them, which they have not the money to
pay.

The Nubian M.P.'s passed the other day in three boats, towed by a
steamer, very frightened and sullen. I fell in with some Egyptians on my
way, and tried the European style of talk. 'Now you will help to govern
the country, what a fine thing for you,' etc. I got such a look of
rueful reproach. 'Laugh not thou at our beards O Effendim! God's mercy,
what words are these? and who is there on the banks of the Nile who can
say anything but _hader_ (ready), with both hands on the head, and a
salaam to the ground even to a Moudir; and thou talkest of speaking
before Effendina! Art thou mad, Effendim?' Of all the vexations none
are more trying than the distinctions which have been inflicted on the
unlucky Sheykhs el-Beled. In fear and trembling they ate their
Effendina's banquet and sadly paid the bill: and those who have had the
_Nishan_ (the order of the Mejeedee) have had to disburse fees whereat
the Lord Chamberlain's staff's mouths might water, and now the wretched
delegates to the Egyptian Chambers (God save the mark) are going down
with their hearts in their shoes. The Nubians say that the Divan is to
be held in the Citadel and that the road by which the Memlook Beys left
it is not stopped up, though perhaps it goes underground nowadays. {315}

_November_ 27.--The first steamer full of travellers has just arrived,
and with it the bother of the ladies all wanting my saddle. I forbade
Mustapha to send for it, but they intimidate the poor old fellow, and he
comes and kisses my hand not to get him into trouble with one old woman
who says she is the relation of a Consul and a great lady in her own
country. I am what Mrs. Grote called 'cake' enough to concede to
Mustapha's fears what I had sworn to refuse henceforth. Last year five
women on one steamer all sent for my saddle, besides other
things--campstools, umbrellas, beer, etc., etc. This year I'll bolt the
doors when I