lice, who actually did not beat them
when they got into a quarrel, but scolded the Frankish man instead, and
accompanied them back to the boat quite politely. The novelty and
triumph of not being beaten was quite intoxicating. There is such a
curious sight of a crowd of men carrying huge blocks of stone up out of a
boat. One sees exactly how the stones were carried in ancient times;
they sway their bodies all together like one great lithe animal with many
legs, and hum a low chant to keep time. It is quite unlike any carrying
heavy weights in Europe.

It is getting dusk and too windy for candles, so I must say goodnight and
eat the dinner which Darfour has pressed upon me two or three times, he
is a pleasant little creature, so lively and so gentle. It is washing
day. I wish you could see Mabrook squatting out there, lathering away at
the clothes with his superb black arms. He is a capital washer and a
fair cook, but an utter savage.

[The foregoing letter reached England the day after the death of my
grandmother, Mrs. Austin, which was a great shock to my mother and made
her ill and unhappy; so it was settled that my brother Maurice should go
out and spend the winter with her on the Nile.]

September 7, 1867: Sir Alexander Duff Gordon

_To Sir Alexander Duff Gordon_.

BOULAK,
_September_ 7, 1867.

DEAREST ALICK,

Many thanks for your letter and for all the trouble you have taken. I
wish you were better.

There is such a group all stitching away at the big new sail; Omar, the
Reis, two or three volunteers, some old sailors of mine, and little
Darfour. If I die I think you must have that tiny nigger over; he is
such a merry little soul, I am sure you would love him, he is quite a
civilized being and has a charming temper, and he seems very small to be
left alone in the world.

I hope Maurice is not of the faction of the _ennuyes_ of this generation.
I am more and more of Omar's opinion, who said, with a pleased sigh, as
we sat on the deck under some lovely palm-trees in the bright moon-light,
moored far from all human dwellings, 'how sweet are the quiet places of
the world.'

I wonder when Europe will drop the absurd delusion about Christians being
persecuted by Muslims. It is absolutely the other way,--here at all
events. The Christians know that they