e knows what the Government wants of
him or why he is so watched. It is the first time I ever saw an Oriental
travelling for pleasure. He had about ten or twelve in the hareem, among
them his three little girls, and perhaps twenty men outside, Indians, and
Arabs from Syria, I fancy.

Next day I moved into the old house, and found one end in ruins, owing to
the high Nile and want of repair. However there is plenty more safe and
comfortable. I settled all accounts with my men, and made an inventory
in Arabic, which Sheykh Yussuf wrote for me, which we laughed over
hugely. How to express a sauce-boat, a pie-dish, etc. in Arabic, was a
poser. A genteel Effendi, who sat by, at last burst out in
uncontrollable amazement; 'There is no God but God: is it possible that
four or five Franks can use all these things to eat, drink and sleep on a
journey?' (N.B. I fear the Franks will think the stock very scanty.)
Whereupon master Achmet, with the swagger of one who has seen cities and
men, held forth. 'Oh Effendim, that is nothing; Our Lady is almost like
the children of the Arabs. One dish or two, a piece of bread, a few
dates, and Peace, (as we say, there is an end of it). But thou shouldst
see the merchants of Escandarieh, (Alexandria), three tablecloths, forty
dishes, to each soul seven plates of all sorts, seven knives and seven
forks and seven spoons, large and small, and seven different glasses for
wine and beer and water.' 'It is the will of God,' replied the Effendi,
rather put down: 'but,' he added, 'it must be a dreadful fatigue to them
to eat their dinner.' Then came an impudent merchant who wanted to go
down with his bales and five souls in my boat for nothing. But I said,
'Oh man, she is my property, and I will eat from her of thy money as of
the money of the Franks.' Whereupon he offered 1 pound, but was bundled
out amid general reproaches for his avarice and want of shame. So all
the company said a _Fattah_ for the success of the voyage, and Reis
Mohammed was exhorted to 'open his eyes,' and he should have a tarboosh
if he did well.

Then I went to visit my kind friend the Maohn's wife, and tell her all
about her charming daughter and grandchildren. I was, of course, an hour
in the streets salaaming, etc. '_Sheerafteenee Beledna_, thou hast
honoured our country on all sides.' 'Blessings come with thee,' etc.

Everything is cheaper than last year, but there is no money to buy with,
and the taxes ha