is said he had 'carried
her on his head all this time' but 'what could such a one as he say
against the word of a Howagah, like Ross's storekeeper?' When the
English cheat each other there remains nothing but to seek refuge with
God. Omar buys the wood and superintends, together with the Reis, and
the builders seem good workmen and fair-dealing. I pay day by day, and
have a scribe to keep the accounts. If I get out of it for 150 pounds I
shall think Omar has done wonders, for every atom has to be new. I never
saw anything so rotten afloat. If I had gone up the Cataract I should
never have come down alive. It is a marvel we did not sink long ago.

Mahbrook, Palgrave's boy, has arrived, and turns out well. He is a stout
lubberly boy, with infinite good humour, and not at all stupid, and
laughs a good real nigger yahyah, which brings the fresh breezes and
lilac mountains of the Cape before me when I hear it. When I tell him to
do anything he does it with strenuous care, and then asks, _tayib_? (is
it well) and if I say 'Yes' he goes off, as Omar says, 'like a cannon in
Ladyship's face,' in a guffaw of satisfaction. Achmet, who is half his
size, orders him about and teaches him, with an air of extreme dignity
and says pityingly to me, 'You see, oh Lady, he is quite new, quite
green.' Achmet, who had never seen a garment or any article of European
life two years ago, is now a smart valet, with very distinct ideas of
waiting at table, arranging my things etc. and cooks quite cleverly.
Arab boys are amazing. I have promoted him to wages--one napoleon a
month--so now he will keep his family. He is about a head taller than
Rainie.

I intend to write a paper on the various festivals and customs of Copts
and Muslims; but I must wait to see Abu Seyfeyn, near Luxor, the great
Christian Saint, where all go to be cured of possession--all mad people.
The Viceroy wages steady war against all festivals and customs. The
_Mahmal_ was burked this year, and the fair at Tantah forbidden. Then
the Europeans spoil all; the Arabs no longer go to the _Ata el-Khalig_,
and at the _Doseh_, the Frangee carriages were like the Derby day. It is
only up country that the real thing remains.

To-morrow my poor black sheep will be killed over the new prow of the
boat; his blood 'straked' upon her, and his flesh sodden and eaten by all
the workmen, to keep off the evil eye; and on the day she goes into the
water, some _Fikees_ will read th