s and bring it out where the last stitch
was finished.
GATHERING.--You begin by taking the article to be gathered, and dividing
it into halves, and then into quarters, putting on pins, to make the
divisions. The piece, to which you are intending to gather it, must be
gathered about twelve threads from the top, taking three threads on the
needle, and leaving four; and so preceding, alternately, until one
quarter is gathered. Fasten the thread, by twisting it round a pin;
stroke the gathers, so that they lie evenly and neatly, with a strong
needle or pin. You then proceed as before, until all the gathers are
gathered. Then take out the pins, and regulate the gathers of each
quarter, so as to correspond with those of the piece to which it is to
be sewed. The gathers are then to be fastened on, one at a time; and the
stitches must be in a slanting direction. The part to be gathered must
be cut quite even before commencing, or else it will be impossible to
make the gathering look well.
DOUBLE GATHERING, OR PUFFING.--This is sometimes employed in setting on
frills; and when executed properly has a pretty effect. You first gather
the top, in the usual way; then, having stroked down the gathers, you
gather again under the first gathering, and of such a depth as you wish
the puffing to be. You then sew on the first gathering to the gown,
frock, &c. you design to trim, at a distance, corresponding with the
width of the puffing: and the second gathering sewed to the edge, so as
to form a full hem. You may make a double hem, if you please, by
gathering three times instead of only twice; and one of the hems may be
straight, while the other is drawn to one side a little. This requires
much exactness, in the execution; but if properly done, it gives a
pleasing variety to the work.
WHIPPING.--You cut the edge smooth, and divide into halves and quarters,
as for gathering. You then roll the muslin or other material very
lightly upon the finger, making use of the left thumb for that purpose.
The needle must go in on the outside, and be brought through, on the
inside. The whipping-cotton should be as strong and even as possible. In
order that the stitches may draw with ease, they must be taken with
great care. The roll of the whip should be about ten threads.
[Illustration]
BUTTON-HOLE STITCH.--These should be cut by a thread, and their length
should be that of the diameter of the button. In working, the
button-hole must lie len
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