d hem.

SHIRTS.--These are generally made of linen; but calico is also made use
of. The degree of fineness must be determined by the occupation and
station of the wearer. A long piece of linen will, if cut with care,
make several shirts of an ordinary man's size. In cutting, you must take
a shirt of the required dimensions, as a pattern; and, by it, measure
the length of several bodies, not cutting any but the last. Then cut off
the other bodies; and from the remainder, cut off the sleeves, binders,
gussets, &c., measuring by the pattern. Bosom-pieces, falls, collars,
&c., must be fitted, and cut by a paper or other pattern, which suits
the person for whom the articles are intended.

In making up, the bodies should be doubled, so as to leave the front
flap one nail shorter than that behind. Then, marking off the spaces for
the length of the flaps and arm holes, sew up the seams. The bosom-slit
is five nails, and three nails is the space left for the shoulders. The
space for the neck will be nine nails. One breadth of the cloth makes
the sleeves, and the length is from nine to ten nails. The collar, and
the wristbands, are made to fit the neck and wrists, and the breadths
are so various, that no general rule can be given. You make the binders,
or linings, about twelve nails in length, and three in breadth; and the
sleeve gussets are three; the neck gusset, two; the flap gussets, one;
and the bosom gusset, half a nail square. The work, or stitches,
introduced into the collar, wristbands, &c., are to be regulated
according to the taste of the maker, or the wearer.

Gentlemen's night shirts are made in a similar manner, only they are
larger. The cloth recommended to be used, is that kind of linen which is
called shirting-width. Where a smaller size is required, a long strip
will cut off from the width, which will be found useful for binders,
wristbands, &c.

VEILS.--These are made of net, gauze, or lace, and are plain or worked,
as suits the taste of the wearer. White veils are generally of lace:
mourning ones are made of black crape. The jet-black is to be preferred,
as it wears much better than the kind termed blue-black. Colored veils
look well with a satin ribbon of the same color, about a nail deep, put
on as a hem all round. For white ones, a ribbon of a light color is
preferable, as it makes a slight contrast. A crape, or gauze veil, is
hemmed round; that at the bottom being something broader than the rest.
All v