hawl is doubled the hems of both folds may appear at the same time,
care must be taken, after laying on the border on two successive sides,
to turn the shawl, and then lay on the remainder of the border. The
trimmings for these kind of shawls are of great variety.

A TRAVELLING SHAWL.--This is easily made, and is very warm and
convenient. Take a square of wadding, and double it cornerways; cover it
with muslin, or silk, and trim it as you please.

MOURNING SHAWLS.--These may be made either of half a square of black
silk, entirely covered with crape, which is proper for deep mourning, or
you may take half a square of rich and rather dull black silk, and
border it with a hem of crape, two nails deep, laid on upon the two
straight sides of the shawl.

SHIFTS.--These are generally made of fine Irish, or calico. They are
made either with gores, or crossed. The latter is the neatest method.
Two breadths are sufficient for a full sized shift, and gores are cut
off a given width at the bottom, and extending to a point, in order to
widen the garment. In crossing a shift, you first sew the long seams;
then you double it in a slanting direction, so as to mark off at the
top and bottom ten nails at opposite corners; this done, you join the
narrow ends together, and sew the cross seams, leaving a sufficient slit
for the arm holes. There are various methods of cutting the back and
bosom. Some cut out a scollop both before and behind; but in this case,
the back is hollowed out one third less than the front. Some ladies
hollow out the back, but form the bosom with a flap, which may be cut
either straight, or in a slanting direction from the shoulders. Another
method of forming the bosom is by cutting the shoulder-straps separate
from the shift, and making the top quite straight; bosom gores are then
let in, in front; the top is hemmed both before and behind, and a frill
gives a neat finish to the whole. The sleeves may be either set in plain
or full, as suits the taste of the wearer. Sometimes the sleeve and
gusset are all in one piece; at other times they are separate. In all
cases, great care should be taken in cutting out, not to waste the
material. For this purpose it is always advisable to cut out several at
one time. Shifts for young children of from five to ten years of age,
are generally made with flaps both before and behind. This is decidedly
the neatest shape for them. The bottom, in all cases, should be hemmed
with a broa