et in plain: the length
of the latter is not material. It is useful to have a slit of three
inches, in front of each. The gown is to have a broad hem at the bottom,
and to be gathered into a band at the top, which is to be drawn tight
with strings; the sleeves are to be hemmed and sewn round the arm or
wrist, in a similar manner.
BUSTLES.--These are worn, to make the waist of the gown sit neat upon
the person. They are made the width of the material, and eight nails
deep. The piece is to be so doubled as to make two flounces; one four
nails and a half and the other three and a-half deep. A case, to admit
of tapes, is to be made one nail from the top, and the bottom of each
flounce is to have a thick cord hemmed into it. When worn, the article
is turned inside out. The materials are strong jean, or calico.
CAPS.--These are made of a great variety of patterns, and the materials
are as various as the purposes to which the article is applied. Muslins
of various kinds, lawn, net, lace, and calico, are all in request; and
the borders are extremely various. Muslin, net, or lace, being those
most in common use. The shapes are so multifarious, as to preclude us
from giving any specific directions. Every lady must choose her own
pattern, as best suits the purpose she has in view. The patterns should
be cut in paper, and considerable care is requisite, in cutting out, not
to waste the material. A little careful practice will soon make this
department familiar to the expert votaress of the needle.
CHILD'S COLLAR.--This is made of double Irish linen, and is stitched
round and made to fall over the dress. Frills are generally attached to
them, and give them a pretty finish. They are proper for children, of
eight or nine years of age.
CRAVATS.--These are of fine muslin, and are made in the shape of a half
handkerchief. They are hemmed with a narrow hem, and should be cut from
muslin, eighteen nails square.
CLOAKS.--These useful and necessary articles of dress are generally made
up by a dress-maker; it is unnecessary therefore to give particular
directions concerning them. The materials are silks and stuffs, of
almost every variety, including satin, merino cloth, real and imitation
shawling plaids, and Orleans. The latter is now very generally used.
Travelling cloaks are made of a stronger material, and are trimmed in a
much plainer style than those used in walking dresses. Satin cloaks look
well with velvet collars, and are
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