le to fade. The best
way is to procure a patch, and wash half of it. This will test the
color, and may prevent much disappointment.
FLANNELS.--The Welsh flannels are generally preferred, as those that are
the most durable. Lancashire flannels are cheapest, but are far inferior
in quality. You may know the one from the other by the color: the
flannels of Lancashire are of a yellowish hue; those of Wales are a kind
of bluish gray tint.
WOOLLEN CLOTHS.--These vary exceedingly, as to quality. The low-priced
ones are not worth half the purchase money. Good woollen cloth is
smooth, and has a good nap. If the sample shown you, be destitute of
these qualities, have nothing to do with it, unless you want to be
cheated.
STUFFS.--The quality of these is sometimes very difficult to detect.
Holding them up to the light is a good plan. You should also be
particular as to the dyeing, as that is sometimes very indifferently
managed, and the stuff is dashed. Black dye is liable to injure the
material. Low-priced stuffs are rarely good for anything.
CRAPE.--This is often damaged in the dying. You should spread it over a
white surface before you purchase it, as by that means, the blemishes in
the material, if any, will be more likely to appear.
SILKS.--These are, if good, costly; and great care should be exercised
in selecting them. They should not be too stiff, as in that case they
are liable to crack; and on the other hand, they should not be too thin,
as that kind is liable to tear almost as soon as paper. A medium
thickness and stiffness is the best. If plain, you must be careful that
there are no stains or specks in them; and if figured, it is advisable
to have the pattern equally good on both sides. This will enhance the
price at first, but you will find it to be good economy afterward. In
silks that are to be sold cheap, a kind of camel's hair is frequently
introduced. This may be detected by pulling a piece of the suspected
silk cross ways, and if camel's hair be mixed with it, it will spring
with a kind of whirring sound. This should be attended to.
SATIN.--It is of various qualities and prices. The best is soft and
thick. When used for trimmings, it should be cut the cross way, as it
then looks better, and has a much richer appearance than when put on
straight.
These general observations will be of great use, and should be well
impressed upon the memory, so as readily to be called into exercise when
needed.
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