ront of the
tents sat a number of women. They differed somewhat from the men, by
having more ample robes of skin, and their hair bound by fillets round
their heads. They were, however, very unprepossessing-looking ladies.
They all seemed to regard Ellen with looks of astonishment now gazing at
her, now at her black attendant, and were evidently discussing among
themselves how it was that they were of such different colours. We saw
a number of horses scattered about the plain, and several of the men
were riding backwards and forwards armed with bows, and having at their
backs large quivers full of arrows, and small round shields. The women
were broiling meat at fires before the tents. They offered us some, and
from the bones and feathers scattered about, we concluded that it was
the flesh of the ostrich, which bird inhabits in large numbers the vast
plains of Patagonia. Savage as they looked, they evidently wished to
treat us civilly, for they spread some skins on the ground inside one of
their tents, and signed to us to take our seats on them. To please them
we ate a little of the food they set before us, although I must say
their style of cookery was not attractive. After we had sat for some
time, they continuing to imitate everything we said or did, we took a
stroll round the encampment. We had not gone far when a large grey bird
with a long neck and long legs, having three toes on its feet, stalked
up to us, and putting out its head, grunted in our faces. Arthur and I
took off our hats and made it a bow in return, greatly to the amusement
of the Patagonians, who burst into loud fits of laughter at the joke.
We recognised the bird at once as the _Rhea Americana_, or American
ostrich. As we did not retreat, it uttered a sharp hiss, and then
poised itself as if it was about to attack us, and so I think it would
have done, had not the natives driven it away. It was about five feet
high, the neck completely feathered, the back of a dark hue, with the
plumes of the wings white. It is said that the male bird takes care of
the eggs which several hens lay scattered about on the sand. He sweeps
them together with his feet into a hollow, which serves as a nest, sits
to hatch them, and accompanies the young till they are able to look
after themselves. On such occasions he will attack a man on horseback
who approaches his charges, and will leap up and try to kick him.

Captain Byles now told us it was time to return