elves with
straw hats, such as are shipped in great numbers from this place under
the name of Panama hats. They are made from the leaves of an
arborescent plant about five feet high, resembling the palm called
_toquilla_. The leaf grows on a three-cornered stalk, and is about a
yard long. It is slit into shreds, and after being immersed in boiling
water is bleached in the sun. The plaiting is very fine, and the hat is
so flexible that it can be turned inside out, or rolled up and put into
the pocket. It is impenetrable to rain and very durable. The chief
export from the place are chinchona, tobacco, orchilla weed, hides,
cotton, coffee, and cacao.

Our friends, we found, were anxious about the difficulties we might
encounter on our journey, on account of the disturbed state of the
country. They advised us, indeed, to postpone our departure till our
father's arrival, or till we should hear from him. The thought,
however, that he and our mother and sister might be exposed to danger
made us the more desirous of proceeding; and at length our friends--
against their better judgment, they assured us--concluded the
arrangements for our journey. We were seated taking coffee the evening
before we were to start, with the magnificent scene I have described
before us, when a stranger was ushered into the room. He wore over his
shoulders a gay-coloured poncho, and held a broad-brimmed hat in his
hand. His breeches were of dark cloth, open at the knee, and he had on
embroidered gaiters, and huge spurs, with rowels the size of a
crown-piece. His jet-black hair, which hung over his shoulders, his
reddish-olive complexion, dark eyes, and somewhat broad face, though his
features were in other respects regular and handsome, told us at once
that he was a native Peruvian. Our friends saluted him as Don Jose. He
addressed us in a kind tone, and told us that, having heard we were
about to proceed to Quito, as he was also going in that direction, and
might be of service, he should be happy to accompany us. Our friends at
once replied that we would thankfully accept his offer, and all
arrangements were quickly made. We were glad to obtain so intelligent a
companion. His kind and gentle manner at once gained our confidence,
and though his dress and appearance were those of ordinary Indians of
the upper class, he looked like one accustomed to receive the respect of
his fellow-men. That he was no common person we were sure. Why