so, and speedily prepared some chocolate for Ellen,
Maria, and himself. A little time was thus occupied, and mounting, we
turned our mules' heads towards the east, just as the grey light of dawn
appeared above the mountain-tops, the stars still shining with a calm
light out of the deep blue sky above our heads, not glittering and
twinkling as in northern climes. We were thus initiated by our friend
in the use of the far-famed coca.

"How do you like it?" he asked.

"I find the smell of the leaf agreeable and aromatic, and now I am
chewing it, it appears to give out a grateful fragrance," I answered.
It caused, I found, a slight irritation, which somewhat excited the
saliva.

"Ah! you will be enabled to go on if you wish till noon without eating,
and then with a fresh supply continue on with active exercise till
nightfall," he observed. "It is with this wonderful leaf that the
running chasquis or messengers have from time immemorial been able to
take their long journeys over the mountains and deserts. It must not be
used to excess, or it might prove prejudicial to the health, yet in
moderation it is both soothing and invigorating. It will prevent any
difficulty of respiration also as you ascend the steep mountain-sides."

The coca-plant grows, I should say, at an elevation of about 6000 feet
above the level of the sea. It is a shrub from four to six feet high,
the branches straight and alternate, and the leaves, in form and size,
like tea-leaves. They are gathered three times a year. They are then
spread out in a drying-yard and carefully dried in the sun. The dried
leaf is called coca. They are afterwards packed in sacks made of banana
leaves. It is most important to keep them dry, as they otherwise
quickly spoil.

Daylight at length enabled us to see our way along one of the wildest
and most rugged paths on which I should think it is possible for animals
to proceed. Up, up we went, with a roaring torrent on one side, and a
glorious view beyond of mountain above mountain, some snow-covered,
others running up into sharp peaks--others, again, considerably lower,
clothed even to their summits with graceful palms, whose feathery tops
stood out against the sky. Sometimes we had to cross narrow chasms on
the fallen stems of trees; now we arrived at a wide one, to be crossed
by means of a suspension bridge, which swung frightfully from side to
side. It made me giddy as I watched those who first passed along