ittle creature which had excited our
admiration shone with the most brilliant tints, though the rest of the
body was of a more sombre hue. The upper parts of the body were of a
pale, dusky green, except the wings, which were of the purple-brown tint
common to humming-birds in general. The head and throat were of the
most resplendent hue, with an emerald green triangular patch on the
throat, while a broad collar of velvety black divided the brilliant
colours of the head from the sober ones of the body. The hen bird,
which was mostly of a sombre olive-green, was flying about under the
bushes, and almost escaped our notice.

Don Jose told us that a similar bird inhabits the sides of Pichincha,
with different marks on its neck, and that neither at any time visits
the other, each keeping to its own mountain, on which they find the
food, flowers, and insects best suited to their respective tastes. It
would have been barbarous to have shot the beautiful little birds; but
even had we wished it, it would have been difficult to do so. So rapid
was their flight, that it was only when they were hovering over a flower
that we could have taken aim. Ellen wanted to have one caught to keep
as a pet; but Don Jose assured her that it would not live in the low
region of the Amazon, but that we should there find many still more
beautiful species of the same family, some of which she might very
likely be able to tame. After watching the birds for some time, we
returned to the camp.

Domingos was the first to mount his mule, riding on ahead, that he might
ascertain if the road was clear, while he promised to return and give us
notice should any enemies appear, that we might have time to conceal
ourselves. This we hoped to be able to do among the wild rocks which
rose up in every direction. We rode on, however, without interruption
for the remainder of the day, and stopped towards evening at a small mud
hut, inhabited by a Quichua family, who willingly agreed with Don Jose
to conceal and protect us with their lives. In the morning we proceeded
in the same way as on the previous day. Thus for several days we
travelled on, resting during the night at rude tambos, the inhabitants
of which, directly Don Jose spoke to them, willingly undertook to give
us accommodation. The weather was fine, the air pure, bracing, and
exhilarating; and in spite of the fatigue we underwent, none of us
suffered. Ellen and Maria bore the journey wonderfu