nte, toute dissipee, avec celle que nous faisons
ici!"--_Les Rochers_. June, 1689.

"Toutes vos descriptions nous ont divertis au dernier point; nous sommes
charmes, comme vous, de la douceur de l'air, de la noble antiquite des
eglises honorees comme vous dites, de la presence et de la residence de
tant de Papes, &c. &c."--June 26, 1689.]

At the period when the territory of Avignon was styled by the kings of
France the "derriere du Pape," from the convenient posture in which it
lay for their correction, one may fancy the same scenes to have taken
place on a larger scale, which are described as occurring at the bridge
of Kennaquhair, the same struggle between secular and monastic
authority, the same sullen important bridgeward, and the same forcible
arguments employed by wandering troops of jackmen to effect a passage.
In Mr. Cooke's first view of the legate's palace, this bridge appears
projecting from the part of the Roche Don where we stood, a spot marked
with two round buildings, like small Martello towers. The window marked
by two birds flying directly over it, and second from the highest in the
same tower, has acquired a bloody notoriety. From this giddy height, as
we were informed by an inhabitant whom we met, the half-murdered victims
of revolutionary massacre were thrown, to put an end to their
sufferings: and their remains heaped up for a time in the square
building which stands below, originally erected for the purpose of an
ice-house.

Having familiarized ourselves with the leading features of Avignon and
its vicinity, as viewed from this commanding point, we descended into
the town to take a more particular survey.

Rhetor comes Heliodorus,
Graecorum longe doctissimus.

To translate Horace freely, our companion was a rhetorician, or talker
by profession, and the most learned of his class in extraordinary
legends and fabrications; in other respects an useful civil fellow, with
an Irish brogue, which his service in the French army had not been able
to eradicate, or even weaken, and the established cicerone of the place.
To account satisfactorily for his wooden leg and French uniform, he
anticipated our inquiries by informing us, that he had been crippled by
a shipwreck on the French coast, and through the recommendation of his
friends the _Duchess_ of Westmoreland and _Countess_ of Devonshire,
patronized by Louis, "who allowed him this uniform coat to wear, and two
_males_ a-day." In England,