not
suffered, by law, to travel beyond it: but whether this law restricted them
from entering Suabia, or Bavaria, I could not learn. I approached the
church, and with the aid of a good-natured verger, who happened luckily to
speak French, I was conducted all over the interior--which was sufficiently
neat. But the object of my peculiar astonishment was, that Jews,
Protestants, and Catholics, all flocked alike, and frequently, at the SAME
TIME, to exercise their particular forms of worship within this church!--a
circumstance, almost partaking of the felicity of an Utopian commonwealth.
I observed, indeed, a small crucifix upon the altar, which confirmed me in
the belief that the Lutheran worship, according to the form of the
Augsbourg confession, was practised here; and the verger told me there was
no other place of worship in the village. His information might be
deceitful or erroneous; but it is to the honour of his character that I
add, that, on offering him a half florin for his trouble in shewing me the
church, he seemed to think it a point of conscience _not_ to receive it.
His refusal was mild but firm--and he concluded by saying, gently repelling
the hand which held the money, "jamais, jamais!" Is it thus, thought I to
myself, that "they order things in" Germany?

The sun had set, and the night was coming on apace, after we left
_Bischoffsheim_, and turned from the high road on the left, leading to
Rastadt to take the right, for _Baden_. For the advantage of a nearer cut,
we again turned to the right--and passed through a forest of about a league
in length. It was now quite dark and late: and if robbers were abroad, this
surely was the hour and the place for a successful attack upon defenceless
travellers. The postboy struck a light, to enjoy the comfort of his pipe,
which he quickly put to his mouth, and of which the light and scent were
equally cheering and pleasant. We were so completely hemmed in by trees,
that their branches brushed strongly in our faces, as we rolled swiftly
along. Every thing was enveloped in silence and darkness: but the age of
banditti, as well as of chivalry--at least in Germany--appears to be
"gone." We sallied forth from the wood unmolested; gained again the high
road; and after discerning some lights at a distance, which our valet told
us (to our great joy) were the lights of BADEN, we ascended and
descended--till, at midnight, we entered the town. On passing a bridge,
upon which I di