of _Ulm_ cathedral is too _short_, for its nave and choir. Not very
long ago, they had covered the interior by a white wash; and thus the
mellow tint of probably about five centuries--in a spot where there are few
immediately surrounding houses--and in a town of which the manufactories
and population are comparatively small--the _latter_ about 14,000--thus, I
say, the mellow tint of these five centuries (for I suppose the cathedral
to have been finished about the year 1320) has been cruelly changed for the
staring and chilling effects of whiting.

The choir is interesting in a high degree. At the extremity of it, is an
altar--indicative of the Lutheran form of worship[24] being carried on
within the church--upon which are oil paintings upon wood, emblazoned with
gilt backgrounds--of the time of _Hans Burgmair_, and of others at the
revival of the art of painting in Germany. These pictures turn upon hinges,
so as to shut up, or be thrown open; and are in the highest state of
preservation. Their subjects are entirely scriptural; and perhaps old _John
Holbein_, the father of the famous Hans Holbein, might have had a share in
some of them. Perhaps they may come down to the time of _Lucas Cranach_.
Whenever, or by whomsoever executed, this series of paintings, upon the
high altar of the cathedral of Ulm, cannot be viewed without considerable
satisfaction. They were the first choice specimens of early art which I had
seen on this side of the Rhine; and I of course contemplated them with the
hungry eye of an antiquary.

After a careful survey of the interior, the whole of which had quite the
air of English cleanliness and order, we prepared to mount the famous
tower. Our valet, Rohfritsch, led the way; counting the steps as he
mounted, and finding them to be about three hundred and seventy-eight in
number. He was succeeded by the guide. Mr. Lewis and myself followed in a
more leisurely manner; peeping through the interstices which presented
themselves in the open fretwork of the ornaments, and finding, as we
continued to ascend, that the inhabitants and dwelling houses of Ulm
diminished gradually in size. At length we gained the summit, which is
surrounded by a parapet wall of some three or four feet in height. We
paused a minute, to recover our breath, and to look at the prospect which
surrounded us. The town, at our feet, looked like the metropolis of Laputa.
Yet the high ground, by which we had descended into the town--and