ture and woodland scenery, and surrounded
by hills crowned with interminable firs.
As we descended, the clock of the convent struck eight, which was succeeded
by the tolling of the convent bell. After a day of oppressive heat, with a
lowering atmosphere threatening instant tempest, it was equally, grateful
and refreshing to witness a calm blue sky, chequered by light fleecy
clouds, which, as they seemed to be scarcely impelled along by the evening
breeze, were fringed in succession by the hues of a golden sun-set. The
darkening shadows of the trees added to the generally striking effect of
the scene. As we neared the town, I perceived several of the common people,
apparently female rustics, walking in couples, or in threes, with their
arms round each others necks, joining in some of the popular airs of their
country. The off-hand and dextrous manner in which they managed the _second
parts_, surprised and delighted me exceedingly. I expressed my
gratification to Mr. Schweighaeuser, who only smiled at my wondering
simplicity. "If _these_ delight you so much, what would you say to our
_professors_?"--observed he. "Possibly, I might not like them quite so
well," replied I. The professor pardoned such apparent heresy; and we
continued to approach the town. We were thirsty from our walk, and wished
to enter the tea gardens to partake of refreshment. Our guide became here
both our interpreter and best friend; for he insisted upon treating us. We
retired into a bocage, and partook of one of the most delicious bottles of
white wine which I ever remember to have tasted. He was urgent for a second
bottle; but I told him we were very sober Englishmen.
In our way home, the discourse fell upon literature, and I was anxious to
obtain from our venerable companion an account of his early studies, and
partialities for the texts of such Greek authors as he had edited. He told
me that he was first put upon collations of Greek MSS. by our _Dr.
Musgrave_, for his edition of _Euripides_; and that he dated, from that
circumstance, his first and early love of classical research. This
attachment had increased upon him as he became older--had "grown with his
growth, and strengthened with his strength"--and had induced him to grapple
with the unsettled, and in parts difficult, texts of _Appian_, _Epictetus_,
and _Athenaeus_. He spoke with a modest confidence of his _Herodotus_--just
published: said that he was even then meditating a _second_ Lati
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