walks,
and streets; which latter have the footpaths almost approaching to our
pavement. You enter and quit the town through an avenue of lofty and large
stemmed poplars, at least a mile long. The effect, although formal, is
pleasing. They were the loftiest poplars which I had ever beheld. The
churches, public buildings, gardens, and streets (of which _latter_ the
principal is a mile long) have all an air of tidiness and comfort; although
the very sight of them is sufficient to freeze the blood of an antiquary.
There is nothing, apparently, more than ninety-nine years old! We dined at
Karlsruhe, and slept at _Schweiberdingen_, one stage on this side of
Stuttgart: but for two or three stages preceding Stuttgart, we were
absolutely astonished at the multitude of apple-trees, laden, even to the
breaking down of the branches, with goodly fruit, just beginning to ripen:
and therefore glittering in alternate hues of red and yellow--all along the
road-side as well as in private gardens. The vine too was equally fruitful,
and equally promising of an abundant harvest.

There was a drizzling rain when we entered THIS TOWN. We passed the long
range of royal stables to the right, and the royal palace to the left; the
latter, with the exception of a preposterously large gilt crown placed upon
the central part of a gilt cushion, in every respect worthy of a royal
residence. On, driving to the hotel of the _Roi d'Angleterre_, we found
every room and every bed occupied; and were advised to go to the place from
whence I now address you. But the _Roman Emperor_ is considered to be more
fashionable: that is to say, the charges are more extravagant. Another
time, however, I will visit neither the one nor the other; but take up my
quarters at the _King of Wirtemberg_--the neatest, cleanliest, and most
comfortable hotel in Stuttgart. In _this_ house there is too much noise and
bustle for a traveller whose nerves are liable to be affected.

As a whole, Stuttgart is a thoroughly dull place. Its immediate environs
are composed of vine-covered hills, which, at this season of the year, have
an extremely picturesque appearance; but, in winter, when nothing but a
fallow-like looking earth is visible, the effect must be very dreary. This
town is large, and the streets--especially the _Koenings-strasse,_ or
King-Street,--are broad and generally well paved. The population may be
about twenty-two thousand. He who looks for antiquities, will be cruelly