the heavens were "black with
clouds;" the morning till eleven o'clock, having been insufferably hot and
a tremendous thunder storm--which threatened to deluge the whole place with
rain--moved, in slow and sullen majesty, quite round and round the town,
without producing any other effect than that of a few sharp flashes, and
growling peals, at a distance. But the darkened and flitting shadows upon
the fir trees, on the hills, during the slow wheeling of the threatening
storm, had a magnificently picturesque appearance.

The walks, lawns, and rustic benches about Baden, are singularly pretty and
convenient. Here was a play-house; there, a temple; yonder, a tavern,
whither the _Badenois_ resorted to enjoy their Sunday dinner. One of these
taverns was unusually large and convenient. I entered, as a stranger, to
look around me: and was instantly struck by the notes of the deepest-toned
bass voice I had ever heard--accompanied by some rapidly executed passages
upon the harp. These ceased--and the softer strains of a young female voice
succeeded. Yonder was a _master singer_[1]--as I deemed him--somewhat
stooping from age; with white hairs, but with a countenance strongly
characteristic of intellectual energy of _some_ kind. He was sitting in a
chair. By the side of him stood the young female, about fourteen, from
whose voice the strains, just heard, had proceeded. They sang alternately,
and afterwards together: the man holding down his head as he struck the
chords of his harp with a bold and vigorous hand. I learnt that they were
uncle and niece. I shall not readily forget the effect of these figures, or
of the songs which they sang; especially the sonorous notes of the
mastersinger, or minstrel. He had a voice of most extraordinary compass. I
quickly perceived that I was now in the land of music; but the guests
seemed to be better pleased with their food than with the songs of this old
bard, for he had scarcely received a half florin since I noticed him.

Professor Schweighaeuser came to visit me at the appointed hour of six, in
order to have an evening stroll together to a convent, about two miles off,
which is considered to be the fashionable evening walk and ride of the
place. I shall long have reason to remember this walk; as well from the
instructive discourse of my venerable and deeply learned guide, as from the
beauty of the scenery and variety of the company. As the heat of the day
subsided, the company quitted their