was a little wooden figure attached to the wheel, which performed
the same office. The road runs round a hill, along an estuary formed by
the river, and suddenly the beautiful lake, called the Bay of Douarnenez,
bursts on the sight, of a blue as lovely as the Italian seas.

The dirty little town of Douarnenez is charmingly situated to the south of
the bay, the hills clothed with trees to the water's edge. The Pointe du
Raz forms the western boundary of the bay, and it is shut in to the north
by the peninsula of Crozon; its extreme point, Pointe de la Chevre,
advancing nearly midway into the bay. The tide here falls eighteen feet.
The triple peaks of the Mene-Hom, one of the Montagnes Noires, is a
prominent feature in the view. Islands are scattered over the gulf, and
the island of Tristan, retreat of Fontenelle le Ligueur, is so close to
Douarnenez, that it may be reached on foot at low water.

The hotel was crammed, gentlemen sleeping on the billiard-table, or
littered down in the room of the table-d'hote: the place was crowded. All
the world had flocked in to assist at the Pardon of Sainte Anne-la-Palue,
which was to take place the following morning. No vehicle was to be had,
and we were in despair of being able to go, when a good-natured voyageur
kindly offered to drive us in his carriage--a proposal we thankfully
accepted. In all our wanderings we had hitherto never been so fortunate as
to see a Pardon, and we were very anxious to go.

The Pardon of Sainte Anne-la-Palue takes place the last Sunday in August,
continuing three days, and is one of the most frequented in Finistere.

[Illustration: 59. Costume of a Finistere Bride.]

At Plonevez-Porzun we turned off the Crozon road, and about two miles
further arrived at the chapel. The road all the way was lined with
peasants walking to the Pardon. The young men of Douarnenez wear blue
jackets, embroidered in colours, with rows of plated buttons, the sleeves
and waistcoat of a darker blue than the jacket, scarlet sashes, some with
plaited bragou bras and shining leather gaiters; but most of them wore
trowsers, their hair long, and their hats with two or three rows of
coloured variegated chenille. The women had square caps, and aprons with
bibs. Those who were in mourning wore light yellow caps, called
"bourladins," stained that colour with beeswax or saffron.

St. Anne is a newly-built church, standing on the slope of a down which
separates it from the sea, in a pe