rfectly insulated situation. It is only
opened once a year for the Pardon. Round it were erected numerous stalls,
with toys, epinglettes, and rosaries (chapelets), in heaps for sale; for
rosaries must always be purchased at the Pardon, to preserve the wearer
from thunder and hydrophobia. The great fabric for them is at Angers,
where they are made in immense quantities. In the principal manufactory a
steam-engine is used for turning the beads; in the others the common
lathe. One maker told us she sent annually into Brittany alone rosaries to
the value of 800_l_. There were tents and booths erected for the
accommodation of the pilgrims who had arrived the preceding day. They eat,
drink, and dance in the tents by day, and sleep on the tables at night.
At ten o'clock, at the ringing of a bell, a procession was formed,
consisting of a long line of peasants, preceded by priests and banners,
which made the round of the church; the penitents, en chemise to the
waist, barefooted, carrying wax-tapers in their hands. The penance is
sometimes executed by proxy: a rich sinner may, for a small sum, get his
penance performed by another. One woman made the round of the church on
her knees, telling her beads as she hobbled along. This was in performance
of a vow made for some special deliverance.
We proceeded to the top of the hill, from which the beautiful Bay of
Douarnenez presented a most lively appearance; fleets of small boats
arriving from every direction, and a huge steamer from Brest, which was
obliged to land its passengers in small boats, on account of the
shallowness of the water.
The appearance of the downs now became very animated, covered with
gaily-dressed peasants arranged in groups, sitting or lying on the grass,
in every kind of attitude.
At four o'clock the grand procession took place. First came the priests of
all the surrounding districts, with the banners and crosses of their
parishes; then followed five girls (three and two) in white, carrying a
banner, and eight more in similar attire, bearing a statue of the Virgin.
Next appeared the banner of Sainte Anne, carried by women in the gorgeous
costume of the commune--gowns of cherry-coloured silk, trimmed half the way
up with gold lace, a silver lace scarf, and aprons of gold tissue or rich
silk brocade. Under their lace caps was a cap of gold or silver tissue.
Four more of these superbly-dressed bearers ("porteuses") carried the
statue of Ste. Anne.
[Illus
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