ander; du pain, du lait, la liberte; et une
coeur qui ne puisse jamais s'ouvrir a l'ambition, voila l'objet de tous mes
desirs."

La Tour d'Auvergne had a learned dog, which he educated as a soldier; he
went through the whole drill, and his master made him always wear boots.
He marched in them, on one occasion, the whole distance from Paris to
Guingamp.

A horse fair and market were going on at Carhaix. Some of the women wore
curious flannel hoods, edged with colours. There were baskets of burnt
limpet shells and lime, used in washing as substitutes for soap. In the
porch of the church dedicated to St. Tremeur (son of the Bluebeard
Comorre) are some of the little skull-boxes so common in the north of
Brittany. One was labelled, "Ci git le chef de Mr. Thomas Francois Nonet,
ancien notaire et maire de la ville de Carhaix le 28 J^ier 1776, decedee
le 8 7^bre 1842." The curfew bell rings at Carhaix at a quarter to ten.

We left next day for Huelgoat, fifteen miles distant, the road up and
down, wild and dreary. At Pont Pierre, about nine miles from Carhaix, we
crossed the Aulne, even here a considerable river, with a beautiful thick
forest on our right. At a place called La Grande Halte, we turned off the
road to the right for Huelgoat, about a mile and a half off. It is
prettily situated on a large pond or lake, nearly a mile and a half in
circumference, and of great depth (20 feet). It was market day; the men
wore brown serge coats, close white breeches and black gaiters, with straw
hats bound with black. The countrymen from Saint Herbot were there in
their black shaggy goat or sheepskin overcoats, the hair turned outwards
(there are flocks of black sheep throughout Finistere), without sleeves,
and the white breeches, black gaiters, and straw hats. The women of
Huelgoat wear large white turnover collars and caps with long ends turned
up.

We first walked to the rocking stone on the slope of a steep hill,
considered the third largest in Brittany; the block forming a kind of
double cube, that is, about twice the length of its height. It requires a
very slight impulse to make it rock. This "fairy stone" is often consulted
by the peasants. In the ravine close by, below the path, is what is called
the "Cuisine de Madame Marie," but termed in the guide-books the "Menage
de la Vierge;" a recess formed of large masses of fantastically shaped
granite rocks, through which a small stream of water flows, arriving
thither from the