a piece of cloth and taken
internally.

7. Perspiration from a black horse. A saddlecloth, after having been
used on the horse, is put over the abdomen of the woman.

8. A decoction of the bark of the elm.

9. Pork fat.

After a number of days the patient recovered. Whether it was _propter
hoc_ or merely _post hoc_ is a matter of conjecture.

Guachochic served admirably as a central point from which excursions
in various directions could be made, as it lies in the very midst of
the Tarahumare country. It is true that the Mexicans have appropriated
all the best land round about, and their extensive and fertile ranches
lie all around Guachochic. Toward the east, in the direction of the
pueblos of Tonachic and Lagunitas, the broad strip of good arable
and pasture land as far as Parral is owned exclusively by Mexicans.

But in the immediate neighbourhood of Guachochic toward the west
and south lie the ridges and barrancas that run toward Sinaloa,
and these are inhabited by pagan Tarahumares. Toward the north the
Indians hold undisputed sway over that extensive region of mountains,
pine-covered plateaus and well-watered arroyos around the pueblos
of Norogachic, Pamachic and Nararachic, and here are found the most
independent Tarahumares that are left, who still defy the whites to
take their land away from them. They are more valiant than the rest
and not easily intimidated.

The first thing for me to do, after establishing camp near Guachochic,
was to secure strong mules and the necessary men to bring up the
outfit that had been left behind in Tasajisa, and after a week's
absence they returned with all the animals and goods intact.

Guachochic is an uninteresting place at its best, and at this season
it seemed especially dreary, on account of the crop failure from
which the sierra had been suffering for the last two years. There is
never much to get here, but now even corn and beans could hardly be
bought. It was therefore quite a treat to have a square meal with
Don Miguel, whose wife was a clever cook, and who, considering all
circumstances, kept a fair Mexican table. He could also give me some
general information about the Indians; but not only here, but in
many other parts of Mexico, I was often astonished at the ignorance
of the Mexican settlers concerning the Indians living at their very
doors. Aside from certain conspicuous practices, even intelligent
Mexicans know little of the customs, much less of the bel