er is the use of materials exactly right; this means needles
and threads of the correct size, the ground composed of suitable
fabrics, and properly strained in a frame. The aim in the working is to
get each stitch perfectly flat and straight in its correct place in
spite of the obstinacy of the metal thread; to avoid making the
perforation larger than necessary, for this makes the work clumsy; to
make each succeeding line lie closely beside the last one, for the
surface must be of solid gold, and if the ground showed through in
places it would impoverish the effect.

[Illustration: Fig. 128.]

The direction of the couched thread is usually either vertical or
horizontal, and it may be both of these in the same piece of work. The
reason of this may be because it is worked by counting the threads of
the fabric, or because the pattern is always treated as a diaper and
placed upon the surface without regard to contour. The exception to this
rule of direction is when the couching is taken along a stem or the
narrow hem of a robe to form the border, or along a girdle, it then
follows the direction of the band, this being evidently the most
straightforward and satisfactory method to use for the purpose.

[Illustration: Fig. 129. Front. Back.]

The _point couche rentre ou retire_ is an excellent method to use for
working a raised bar. Fig. 129 shows the front and reverse sides of a
bar worked by it. The gold thread comes cleanly through from the back of
the material instead of being clumsily doubled upon the surface, and the
durability is evidently great. The linen thread, it will be seen, runs
to and fro at the back, at each turn securing the gold thread.

[Illustration: Fig. 130.]

In fig. 130 this couching is to be seen in use upon drapery. It is taken
entirely over the exterior surface of the cloak, and upon the crown,
sceptre, and model of the church. The lines expressing the folds of
drapery are in this case shown by the couching at these places being
taken in a different direction. Fine gold passing is used for the
couched thread, much finer than can possibly be shown in the drawing,
and the pattern chosen for the couching down is a chevron. The other
parts of the work are done with silk thread in a fine chain or split
stitch. The play of light upon the varied surface of the golden cloak is
very beautiful; the drawing of the figure is perhaps primitive, and,
regarded from the draughtsman's point of view, somewhat lu