n upon its journey, the
other hand, entering between the divided warp-threads, takes it on and
out as required. Sometimes the bobbin has to go the entire way between
the leaves, and at others it may be only over two or three threads, this
depending upon the pattern. To enable the bobbin to make the return
passage, the warp must be redivided, the threads that are at the back
must be brought to the front; this is managed by the help of the
coats--a bunch of them is taken in the hand in order to pull forward the
threads to which they are attached. This can be done by sections all
along the line, or just in one part of it if it be so required.
The weft is almost always taken in horizontal lines to and fro. The
exceptions to this rule occur when it is very evident that to run up
and down a narrow slanting line from end to end is far simpler than to
work up in a horizontal zigzag fashion along it.
About an inch of thread is left at the end and at the commencement of
each length of weft; these are secured by the tight packing down of the
threads above them, so there is as a rule no need for any knot or
fastening off, which would be necessary only in the case of commencing
or ending off round a single thread, but it is important for the future
durability of the work to see that the ends are secured. Sometimes a
commencement or a finish is made just where a natural division of the
fabric occurs; in this case, the end of thread would not be secure, for
it might work loose or appear upon the right side. This can usually be
avoided by commencing a little further along the line. The few times
that fastening off or on is necessary, the thread can be run into the
part already woven with a smaller needle, or else be knotted on to a
loose end of wool.
The bobbins not actually in use hang down fixed as in lace work by a
half-hitch. Fig. 181 shows this in process of making; the loop is passed
from the finger on to the bobbin; it will unwind as wanted and yet hold
firm whilst hanging down. The thread is always carried, if practicable,
from one place to where it is next required, in order to avoid
unnecessary breaking off. Tapestry is sometimes woven with both sides
alike, which means only that all the ends must be cut close off. It is
said that work so treated is quite durable.
[Illustration: Fig. 181.]
Special care must be taken that the weft is turned neatly round at the
margins, because if it is at all loose there the work has
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