a ragged,
untidy appearance. This applies also to any turnings that may occur in
other parts due to the carrying out of the pattern; if in these places
the thread is too loose upon the warp, the fabric will be uneven and
pushed out of place; if on the other hand the thread there is too tight,
the slits will gape, and if these are afterwards closed by stitching,
the entire material will be drawn in. A new thread is never commenced
actually at the margin, for it would then be seen upon the right side;
it is quite easy to avoid this happening by commencing an inch further
in. This may entail beginning in a direction which is apparently wrong
for picking up the proper threads, that is, those not picked up in the
row below; but this must happen at times, and the work packs down and
quite prevents the warp showing, as it might be inclined to do in such a
case. It is sometimes at the margin a good plan to pick up two
warp-threads together, for this emphasises the edge rather pleasantly;
this might be advisable in carrying out a long ribbon-like border of any
kind.

After each shoot, the point of the bobbin, the comb, or maybe the
fingers, should press down the woof to make it lie close upon the row
before, and so entirely cover up the warp. Fig. 182 shows the comb in
action, and also the bobbins hanging. The weft must be left a little
slack along the line for this purpose, and some experience is required
in order to leave just the right slackness. The turn at the edge is
arranged first, and then the thread eased evenly along its length in
readiness for being pressed down; it must have the appearance not of
running straight across the warp-strings, but of lying loosely round
them. For packing down a long line, much more play of weft is required
than for a short one.

[Illustration: Fig. 182.]

The usual fault with beginners is to draw the web too tight here and
there. This is a fault to be specially avoided, for it causes the fabric
to be drawn in, and to vary in width, spoiling its appearance and making
the threads difficult to work upon; also the packing down of the weft
could not be properly done, which would cause the warp-threads to be
exposed in parts.

The thoroughness of this packing down of the weft is for several reasons
very important. The durability of the work is much affected by it, both
for the securing of the ends of wool already mentioned, and for the
making of a strong, well-knit piece of fabric. Another