down. This waving line is particularly
suitable for the gold thread, since the slight change in direction
allows the light to play upon the metal very prettily. For this reason
gold is often couched solidly in circular or shell form over a ground.
In gold embroidery, therefore, the direction of the thread is a
specially important matter.

[Illustration: Fig. 134.]

At the end of a line a technical difficulty sometimes arises in the
turning of the thread, which is apt to be clumsy. This difficulty is
overcome in various ways; the most usual is to return the doubled thread
as neatly as possible and continue the next line; another is to cut the
thread sharp off, secure it close to the end with a double stitch, and
recommence in like fashion; the thread can sometimes be passed through
to the back and brought up in position for working the next line. The
fine point of a leaf may present difficulties in the same way; sometimes
one of the two threads is temporarily let slip and the point completed
with the single one, the left thread being picked up upon the return
(see fig. 134). For such occasions as this it is more practical to wind
the two threads of passing upon separate bobbins, and bring them
together at the working. Another way of overcoming the point difficulty
is shown at fig. 135.

RAISED WORK

The couched gold threads may be raised in parts by means of some kind of
padding interposed between it and the ground. They are very effective so
treated, since the raised metal catches and reflects the light in a
pleasing manner. This raising of the thread, however, has been carried
to such extremes as to resemble goldsmith's work rather than embroidery,
and it is then hardly in good taste.

[Illustration: Fig. 135.]

A simple method of raising the gold is to lay down lines of string at
stated intervals over the ground. The well-known form called basket
stitch is done in this way; fig. 136 illustrates this stitch, a part of
the square is left unworked in order to expose the under-layer of
string. To carry out the diagram--First couch down the lines of string
at regular intervals over the surface, then commence laying on the gold
by carrying a doubled thread of passing over two bars of string, and
there fixing it down to the material, then over two more and fixing it
down again, and so on to the end of the line. This is exactly repeated
for a second line of passing, then, for the next two lines, commence by
carryin