inst the west wall, is the great font of Andrea Ferrucci,
the disciple of Bernardo Rossellino, with five reliefs of the story of
St. John Baptist. Opposite Cino's monument is the tomb of Cardinal
Fortiguerra. For long this disappointing monument, so full of
gesticulation, passed as the work of Verrocchio; it is to-day attributed
rather to Lorenzetto, his disciple.

Passing up the north aisle, we enter at last the Cappella del
Sacramento, under whose altar St. Felix, the Pistojese, sleeps, while on
the south wall hangs one of the best works of Lorenzo di Credi, Madonna
with Jesus in her arms, and St. John Baptist and S. Zenone on either
side. Opposite is the bust of Bishop Donato de' Medici, by Antonio
Rossellino. The little crypt under the high altar is scarcely worth a
visit, but the great treasure of the church, the silver frontal of the
high altar, is now to be found in the Cappella della Citta, and over it,
in a chest within the reredos, is the body, still uncorrupted, of S.
Atto, Bishop of Pistoja, who died in 1155. The silver frontal, certainly
the finest in Italy, with its wings and reredos of silver and enamel,
was removed from the high altar in 1786. It is the work of Andrea di
Puccio di Ognibene, the Pistojese goldsmith: it was finished in 1316. It
is carved with fifteen stories from the New Testament, and with many
statues of prophets and pictures of saints. Of the two wings, that on
the left, consisting of stories from the Old Testament, with the
Nativity, the Presentation and the Marriage of the Virgin, is the work
of Pietro of Florence--it was finished about 1357; that on the right,
carved in 1371 by Leonardo di Ser Giovanni, consists of the story of St.
James and the finding of his body at Campostella. All the guide-books
tell you that it was this treasure that Vanni Fucci stole on Shrove
Tuesday in 1292, but, as I suppose, since this altar was not begun till
1314, it must have been the earlier treasure which this replaced. Vanni
Fucci is famous because of his encounter with Dante in Hell.

"Vanni Fucci am I called,
Not long since rained down from Tuscany
To this dire gullet. Me the bestial life
And not the human pleased, mule that I was,
Who in Pistoja found my worthy den."

Dante tell us--

"I did not mark
Through all the gloomy circles of the abyss,
Spirit that swelled so proudly 'gainst his God."[142]

It is in Pistoja better almost than anywhere