ll and slack at the waist, the sleeves were tight, and were made to
unbutton from wrist to elbow; they stopped short at the wrist with a
cuff.

Her upper gown had short, wide sleeves, was fastened at the back, and
was cut but roughly to the figure. The train of this gown was very
long.

They sought for comfort in every particular but one: for though I
think the gorget very becoming, I think that it must have been most
distressing to wear. This gorget was a piece of white linen wrapped
about the throat, and pinned into its place; the ends were brought up
to meet a wad of hair over the ears and there fastened, in this way
half framing the face.

[Illustration: {Four types of hairstyle and head-dresses for women}]

The hair was parted in the middle, and rolled over pads by the ears,
so as to make a cushion on which to pin the gorget. This was the
general fashion.

Now, the earlier form of head-dress gave rise to another fashion. The
band which had been tied round the head to keep the wimple in place
was enlarged and stiffened with more material, and so became a round
linen cap, wider at the top than at the bottom. Sometimes this cap was
hollow-crowned, so that it was possible to bring the wimple under the
chin, fasten it into place with the cap, and allow it to fall over the
top of the cap in folds; sometimes the cap was solidly crowned, and
was pleated; sometimes the cap met the gorget, and no hair showed
between them.

[Illustration: A MAN AND WOMAN OF THE TIME OF EDWARD I. (1272-1307)

The sleeves of the man's overcoat through which he has thrust his
arms are complete sleeves, and could be worn in the ordinary manner
but that they are too long to be convenient; hence the opening.]

What we know as 'the true lovers' knot' was sometimes used as an
ornament sewn on to dresses or gowns.

You may know the effigy of Queen Eleanor in Westminster Abbey, and if
you do, you will see an example of the very plainest dress of the
time. She has a shaped mantle over her shoulders, which she is holding
together by a strap; the long mantle or robe is over a plain,
loosely-pleated gown, which fits only at the shoulders; her hair is
unbound, and she wears a trefoil crown upon her head.

[Illustration: {Two women of the time of Edward I.}]

The changes in England can best be seen by such monuments as Edward
caused to be erected in memory of his beloved wife. The arts of peace
were indeed magnificent, and though th