ned from throat to foot; the sleeves
are wide. His hair is long, and his beard is brushed into two points.

[Illustration: {Four men of the time of Henry IV.; five types of hat;
a pouch}]

[Illustration: {Two men of the time of Henry IV.}]

The fifth gentleman wears a houppelande of middle length, with a very
high collar buttoned up the neck, the two top buttons being undone;
the top of the collar rolls over. He has the epaulette, but instead of
showing the very full bag sleeves he shows a little loose sleeve to
the elbow, and a tight sleeve from the elbow to the hand, where it
forms a cuff. He wears a very new-fashioned cap like a stiff
sugar-bag, with the top lopping over.

[Illustration: {A man of the time of Henry IV.}]

The sixth and last of this group is wearing an unbound
houppelande--that is, he wears no belt. He wears a plain hood which is
over his head, and a soft, loose, peaked hat.

'Sumer is icumen in,' the six sing out, and the shepherd, who can
hear them from outside, is considering whether he can play the air
upon his pipe. He is dressed in a loose tunic, a hood, and a
wide-brimmed straw hat; his pipe is stuck in his belt.

Let us suppose that the wives of the six gentlemen are seated
listening to the manly voices of their lords.

The first wears a dress of blue, which is laced from the opening to
the waist, where the laces are tied in a neat bow and hang down. Her
dress is cut fairly low; it has tight sleeves which come over her
hands to the knuckles in tight cuffs. There is a wide border, about a
foot and a half, of ermine on the skirt of her dress. She wears a
mantle over her shoulders. Her hair is enclosed in a stiff square caul
of gold wire over cloth of gold.

[Illustration: {A woman of the time of Henry IV.}]

The second lady is wearing a houppelande with wide, hanging sleeves
all cut at the edge; the cut of this gown is loose, except that it
fits across her shoulders; she also wears a caul, from the back of
which emerges a linen wimple.

The third lady is in surcoat and cotehardie; the surcoat has a
pleated skirt, and the borders of it are edged thickly with fur; it is
cut low enough at the sides to show a belt over the hips. The
cotehardie, of a different colour to the surcoat, has tight sleeves
with buttons from elbow to little finger. This lady has her hair cut
short at the nape of her neck, and bound about the brows with a golden
circlet.

[Illustration: {Three