s to support the shoes.

I may add that the hose were gartered below the knee to hold them taut
with rich garters, but if a man were a Garter Knight he wore but the
garter of his Order.

[Illustration: {Evolution of the hood to the chaperon}]

Much in favour with this court of gallants were rich chains about the
neck, having for pendant their badge or some saint's figure in gold or
silver.

[Illustration: {Five types of head-wear}]

Now we come to the most interesting and universal fashion of wearing
the chaperon, which I am anxious to show in its various stages. It
began with a cape and a hood worn separately; these were joined for
convenience so that a man might put on both at once. This fashion held
for many years, and then the fashionable man in search of novelty
caused the peak of the hood to be lengthened until it grew to reach to
his feet. Then he cast about for a fresh mode for his head-wear, and
so he twisted the whole affair about his head, leaving the end of the
cape, which was jagged at the edge, protruding like a cockscomb. Time
went on, and he avoided the trouble of tying this himself, so he had
the hat made up all ready tied, much in the manner of a turban.
Finally, the chaperon grew into disuse, and it remains to-day a
curious reminder in the cockade worn by coachmen (it is almost a
replica in miniature, with the round twist and the jagged edge
sticking up above the hat) and on the cloaks of the Knights of the
Garter, where it is carefully made, and forms a cape on the right
shoulder, and in the present head-dress of the French lawyer, a relic
of the Middle Ages.

The chains worn about the neck remain as badges of office in Mayors
and Judges and in various Orders.

The button worn by the members of the Legion of Honour and other
foreign Orders is, I believe, an idea resulting from the cockade,
which, of course, was at the beginning the chaperon in the colours of
the servant's lord.

[Illustration: {A houppelande showing the leg opening}]

When one knows a custom so well, one is apt to leave out many things
in describing it. For example, the houppelande was open from the
bottom of the skirt to the knee in front or at the side, and this
opening was often cut or jagged into shapes; also it was open all the
way up the side of the leg, and from the neck to the breast, and
buttoned over.

I have not remarked on the jester, a member of many households, who
wore an exaggeration of the prevale