are now unknown as such.

FOOTNOTES:

[84] Warton.

[85] Arras, a very common anachronism. After the production of the
arras tapestries, arras became the common name for all tapestries:
even for those which were wrought before the looms of Arras were in
existence.

[86] Moynes--nun. Lady Werburg

[87] _Spyre_--twig, branch.

[88] _Youre_--burnt.

[89] _Hallynge_--Tapestry.

[90] _Faythtes_--feats, facts.

[91] _Brothered_--embroidered.

[92] Epistolae Ho-Elianae.

[93] "Fifteen acres were covered with the bodies of slaughtered
Saracens; and so furious were the strokes of Sir Guy, that the pile of
dead men, wherever his sword had reached, rose as high as his
breast."--Ellis, vol. ii.

[94] Harl. MSS. 1419.

CHAPTER XIII.

NEEDLEWORK IN COSTUME.--PART I.

"What neede these velvets, silkes, or lawne,
Embrodery, feathers, fringe and lace."

Bp. Hall.

"Time was, when clothing sumptuous or for use,
Save their own painted skins, our Sires had none.
As yet black breeches were not."

Cowper.

Manifold indeed were the varieties in mode and material before that
_beau ideal_ of all that is graceful and becoming--the "black
breeches"--were invented. For though in many parts of the globe
costume is uniform, and the vest and the turban of a thousand years
ago are of much the same make as now, this is not the case in the more
polished parts of Europe, where that "turncoat whirligig maniac,
yclept Fashion," is the pole-star and beacon of the multitude of men,
from him who has the "last new cut from Stultz," to him who is
magnificent and happy in the "reg'lar bang-up-go" from the eastern
parts of the metropolis.

It would seem that England is peculiarly celebrated for her devotion
at Fashion's shrine; for we are told that "an Englishman, endevoring
sometime to write of our attire, made sundrie platformes for his
purpose, supposing by some of them to find out one stedfast ground
whereon to build the summe of his discourse. But in the end (like an
orator long without exercise) when he saw what a difficult peece of
worke he had taken in hand, he gave over his travell, and onely drue
the picture of a naked man, unto whome he gave a paire of sheares in
the one hand, and a piece of cloth in the other, to the end he should
shape his apparell after such fashion as himselfe liked, sith he could
find no kind of garment that could please him