hese distinctions were regulated by law
and rigidly enforced. By a statute passed in 1455, for regulating the
dress of the Scottish lords of parliament, the gowns of the earls are
appointed to be furred with ermine, while those of the other lords are
to be lined with "criestay, gray, griece, or purray."

The more precious furs, as ermine and sable, were reserved exclusively
for the principal nobility of both sexes. Persons of an inferior rank
wore the _vair_ or _gris_ (probably the Hungarian squirrel); the
citizens and burgesses, the common squirrel and lamb skins; and the
peasants, cat and badger skins. The mantles of our kings and peers,
and the furred robes of the several classes of our municipal officers,
are the remains of this once universal fashion.

Furs often formed an important part of the ransom of a prisoner of
rank:--

"Sir," quoth Count Bongars, "war's disastrous hour
Hath cast my lot within my foeman's power.
Name ransome as you list; gold, silver bright,
Palfreys, or dogs, or falcons train'd to flight;
Or choose you _sumptuous furs, of vair or gray_;
I plight my faith the destin'd price to pay."[97]

Certain German nobles who had slain a bishop were enjoined, amongst
other acts of penance, "ut varium, griseum, ermelinum, et pannos
coloratos, non portent."

The skin of the wild cat was much used by the clergy. Bishop Wolfstan
preferred lambskin; saying in excuse, "Crede mihi, nunquam audivi, in
ecclesia, cantari _catus_ Dei, sed _agnus_ Dei; ideo calefieri agno
volo."

The monk of Chaucer had

"------his sleeves purfiled, at the hond,
With gris, and that the finest of the lond."

It is not till about the year 1204 that there is any specific
enumeration of the royal apparel for festival occasions. The proper
officers are appointed to bring for the king on this occasion "a
golden crown, a red satin mantle adorned with sapphires and pearls, a
robe of the same, a tunic of white damask; and slippers of red satin
edged with goldsmith's work; a balbrick set with gems; two girdles
enamelled and set with garnets and sapphires; white gloves, one with a
sapphire and one with an amethist; various clasps adorned with
emeralds, turquois, pearls, and topaz; and sceptres set with
twenty-eight diamonds."[98]

So much for the king:--And for the queen--oh! ye enlightened
legislators of the earth, ye omnipotent and magisterial lords of
creation, look on that picture--and on this.