ifold ropes and knots of pearl; in short, to
be manacled, fettered, and imprisoned in jewels: insomuch that at his
going to Paris in 1625, he had twenty-seven suits of clothes made, the
richest that embroidery, lace, silk, velvet, gold, and gems could
contribute; one of which was a white uncut velvet set all over, both
suit and cloak, with diamonds valued at fourscore thousand pounds,
besides a great feather, stuck all over with diamonds, as were also
his sword, girdle, hatband, and spurs.[110]

It would but weary our readers were we to dwell on the well-known
peculiarities of the "Cavalier and Roundhead" days; and tell how the
steeple-crowned hat was replaced at the Restoration by the plumed and
jewelled velvet; the forlorn, smooth, methodistical pate, by the
curled ringlets and flowing lovelock; the sober, sombre, "sad"
coloured garment, with its starched folds, by the gay, varied, flowing
drapery of all hues. Then, how the plume of feathers gave way to the
simpler band and buckle, and the thick large curling wig and full
ruffle, to the bagwig, the tie, and stock.

The dashing cloak and slashed sleeves were succeeded by the coat of
ample dimensions, and the waistcoat with interminable pockets resting
on the knees; the "breeches" were in universal use, though they were
not of the universal "black" which Cowper immortalises; but "black
breeches" and "powder" have had their reign, and are succeeded by the
"inexpressible" costume of the present day. We will conclude a
chapter, which we fear to have spun out tediously, by Lady Morgan's
animated account of the introduction, in France, of that
universally-coveted article of dress--a Cashmir shawl:--

"While partaking of a sumptuous collation (at Rouen), the conversation
naturally turned on the splendid views which the windows commanded,
and on the subjects connected with their existence. The flocks, which
were grazing before us had furnished the beautiful shawls which hung
on the backs of the chairs occupied by our fair companions, and which
might compete with the turbans of the Grand Signor. It would be
difficult now to persuade a Parisian _petite maitresse_ that there was
a time when French women of fashion could exist without a cashmir, or
that such an indispensable article of the toilet and _sultan_ was
unknown even to the most elegant. 'The first cashemir that appeared in
France,' said Madame D'Aubespine, (for an educated French woman has
always something worth heari