SH
PRISONS--WE RIDE TO CAPE SPARTEL--DECIDE TO LEAVE
TANGIER AND PUSH INLAND 1

CHAPTER II

CAMP OUTFIT--A NIGHT AT A CARAVANSERAI--TETUAN--THE
BRITISH VICE-CONSUL--MOORISH SHOPS--WE VISIT A MOORISH
HOUSE AND FAMILY 27

CHAPTER III

DIFFICULTIES OF "LODGINGS" IN MOROCCO--A SPANISH FONDA--A
MOORISH TEA PARTY--POISON IN THE CUP--SLAVES IN
MOROCCO--EL DOOLLAH--MOORISH CEMETERY--RIDE TO SEMSAR--SHOPPING
IN TETUAN--PROVISIONS IN THE CITY 63

CHAPTER IV

THE FAST OF RAMADHAN--MOHAMMED--HIS LIFE AND INFLUENCE--THE
FLOOD AT SAFFI--A WALK OUTSIDE TETUAN--THE
FRENCH CONSUL'S GARDEN-HOUSE--JEWS IN MOROCCO--EUROPEAN
PROTECTION 97

CHAPTER V

PLANS FOR CHRISTMAS AT GIBRALTAR--A ROUGH NIGHT--THE
STEAMER WHICH WOULD NOT WAIT--AN IGNOMINIOUS RETURN
TO TETUAN--A RASCALLY JEW--THE ABORIGINES AND THE
PRESENT OCCUPANTS OF MOROCCO--THE SULTAN, COURT,
GOVERNMENT, AND MOORISH ARMY 121

CHAPTER VI

WE LOOK OVER A MOORISH COURTYARD HOUSE WITH A VIEW TO
TAKING IT--WE RENT JINAN DOLERO IN SPITE OF OPPOSITION--AN
ENGLISHMAN MURDERED--OUR GARDEN-HOUSE--THE
IDIOSYNCRASIES OF MOORISH SERVANTS--A NATIVE GUARD--THE
RIFF COUNTRY 153

CHAPTER VII

COUNTRY PEOPLE FORDING THE RIVER--WE CALL ON CI HAMED
GHRALMIA--AN EXPEDITION ACROSS THE RIVER IN SEARCH OF
THE BLUE POOL--MOORISH BELIEF IN GINNS--THE BASHA--POWDER
PLAY--TETUAN PRISON 181

CHAPTER VIII

MISSIONARIES AT TETUAN--POISONING IN MOROCCO--FATIMA'S
RECEPTION--DIVORCE--AN EXPEDITION INTO THE ANJERAS--AN
EMERALD OASIS 217

CHAPTER IX

WE LEAVE TETUAN--A WET NIGHT UNDER THE STARS--S`LAM DESERTS
US--WE SAIL FOR MOGADOR--THE PALM-TREE HOUSE--SUS
AND WADNOON COUNTRIES--THE SAHARA--THE ATLAS
MOUNTAINS 249

CHAPTER X

ON THE MARCH ONCE MORE--BUYING MULES--A BAD ROAD--FIRST
CAMP--ARGAN-TREES--COOS-COOSOO--A TERRIBLE NIGHT--DOCTORING
THE KHAYLIFA--ROUGHING IT UNDER CANVAS 281

CHAPTER XI

A PARTING MONA--FORDING SHESHAOUA RIVER--JARS OF FOOD--FIRST
SIGHT OF MARRAKESH--A PERILOUS CROSSING--RIDE
INTO MARRAKESH--THE