tonio was very prosperous, and rapidly increasing
in size; but trade is now almost at a complete stand-still. All the male
population under forty are in the military service, and many necessary
articles are at famine prices. Coffee costs $7 a lb.

Menger's hotel is a large and imposing edifice, but its proprietor (a
civil German) was on the point of shutting it up for the present.

During the morning I visited Colonel Bankhead, a tall, gentlemanlike
Virginian, who was commanding officer of the troops here. He told me a
great deal about the Texan history, the Jesuit missions, and the
Louisiana purchase, &c.; and he alarmed me by doubting whether I should
be able to cross the Mississippi if Banks had taken Alexandria.

I also made the acquaintance of Major Minter, another Virginian, who
told me he had served in the 2d cavalry in the old United States army.
The following officers in the Confederate army were in the same
regiment--viz., General A.S. Johnston (killed at Shiloh), General Lee,
General Van Dorn, General Hardee, General Kirby Smith, and General
Hood.[12]

By the advice of M'Carthy, I sent my portmanteau and some of my heavy
things to be sold by auction, as I could not possibly carry them with
me.

I took my place by the stage for Alleyton (Houston): it cost $40; in old
times it was $13.

I dined with M'Carthy and young Duff at 3 P.M. The latter would not
hear of my paying my share of the expenses of the journey from
Brownsville. Mrs M'Carthy was thrown into a great state of agitation and
delight by receiving a letter from her mother, who is in Yankeedom.
Texas is so cut off that she only hears once in many months.

Colonel and Mrs Bankhead called for me in their ambulance at 5 P.M., and
they drove me to see the source of the San Antonio, which is the most
beautiful clear spring I ever saw. We also saw the extensive foundations
for a tannery now being built by the Confederate Government.

The country is very pretty, and is irrigated in an ingenious manner by
ditches cut from the river in all directions. It is thus in a great
degree rendered independent of rain.

At San Antonio spring we were entertained by a Major Young, a queer
little naval officer,--why a major I couldn't discover.

Mrs Bankhead is a violent Southerner. She was twice ordered out of
Memphis by the Federals on account of her husband's principles; but she
says that she was treated with courtesy and kindness by the Federal
General Sherm