nother coach with six horses--big strong
animals.

The roads being all natural ones, were much injured by the rains.

We were all rather disgusted by the bad news we heard at Gonzales of the
continued advance of Banks, and of the probable fall of Alexandria.

The squeezing was really quite awful, but I did not suffer so much as
the fat or long-legged ones. They all bore their trials in the most
jovial good-humoured manner.

My fat _vis-a-vis_ (in despair) changed places with me, my two
bench-fellows being rather thinner than his, and I benefited much by the
change into a back seat.

* * * * *

_29th April_ (Wednesday).--Exhausted as I was, I managed to sleep
wonderfully well last night. We breakfasted at a place called
Hallettsville at 7 A.M., and changed carriages again.

Here we took in four more Confederate soldiers as outsiders, and we were
now eighteen in all. Nowhere but in this country would such a thing be
permitted.

Owing to the great top-weight, the coach swayed about like a ship in a
heavy sea, and the escapes of a capsize were almost miraculous. It is
said that at the end of a Texan journey the question asked is not, "Have
you been upset?" but, "How many times have you been upset?"

The value of the negroes working in the fields was constantly appraised
by my fellow-travellers; and it appeared that, in Texas, an able-bodied
male fetched $2500, whilst a well-skilled seamstress was worth $3500.

Two of my companions served through the late severe campaign in New
Mexico, but they considered forty-eight hours in a closely-packed stage
a greater hardship than any of their military experiences.

We passed many cotton-fields and beautiful Indian corn, but much of the
latter had been damaged by the hail.

I was told that one-third of the land formerly devoted to cotton is
still sown with that article, the remainder being corn, &c.[13]

We also passed through some very pretty country, full of fine post-oak
and cotton trees, and we met many Mexican cotton-teams--some of the
waggons with fourteen oxen or twelve mules, which were being cruelly
ill-treated by their drivers.

We crossed several rivers with steep and difficult banks, and dined at a
farmhouse at 2.30 P.M.

I have already discovered that, directly the bell rings, it is necessary
to rush at one's food and bolt it as quickly as possible, without any
ceremony or delay, otherwise it all disappears, so rapacious a