nd so
voracious are the natives at their meals whilst travelling. Dinner, on
such occasions, in no case lasts more than seven minutes.

We reached Columbus at 6 P.M., and got rid of half our passengers
there. These Texan towns generally consist of one large placa, with a
well-built courthouse on one side and a hotel opposite, the other two
sides being filled up with wooden stores. All their budding prosperity
has been completely checked by the war; but every one anticipates a
great immigration into Texas after the peace.

We crossed the Colorado river, and reached Alleyton, our destination, at
7 P.M.

This little wooden village has sprung into existence during the last
three years, owing to its being the present terminus to the railroad. It
was crammed full of travellers and cotton speculators; but, as an
especial favour, the fat German and I were given a bed _between us_. I
threw myself on the bed with my clothes on (_bien entendu_), and was
fast asleep in five minutes. In the same room there were three other
beds, each with two occupants.

The distance from San Antonio to Alleyton is 140 miles--time, forty-six
hours.

[13] It is only in Texas that so much cotton is still grown.

* * * * *

_30th April_ (Thursday).--I have to-day acquired my first experience of
Texan railroads.

In this country, where every white man is as good as another (by
theory), and every white female is by courtesy a lady, there is only one
class. The train from Alleyton consisted of two long cars, each holding
about fifty persons. Their interior is like the aisle of a church,
twelve seats on either side, each for two persons. The seats are
comfortably stuffed, and seemed luxurious after the stage.

Before starting, the engine gives two preliminary snorts, which, with a
yell from the official of "_all aboard_," warn the passengers to hold
on; for they are closely followed by a tremendous jerk, which sets the
cars in motion.

Every passenger is allowed to use his own discretion about breaking his
arm, neck, or leg, without interference by the railway officials.

People are continually jumping on and off whilst the train is in motion,
and larking from one car to the other. There is no sort of fence or
other obstacle to prevent "humans" or cattle from getting on the line.

We left Alleyton at 8 A.M., and got a miserable meal at Richmond at
12.30. At this little town I was introduced to a seedy-looking m