tion of the model. Their sectional dimensions are 1/16 by 1/4 inch;
their respective lengths are given in Fig. 130. Round the front edges and
sharpen the rear.

In Fig. 130 is shown the correct attitude or standing pose necessary to
make the model rise quickly and sweep boldly up into the air without
skimming the ground for some 10 to 20 yards as so many models do. E is the
elevator (7 by 3 inches); A the main plane (5-1/2 by 29 inches); W the
wheels; and RS the rear skid, terminating in a piece of hooked steel wire.
The vertical bracing of these masts is indicated. The best material to use
for the purpose is Japanese silk gut, which is very light and strong. To
brace, drill a small, neat hole in the mast and rod where necessary, pass
through, and tie. Do the same with each one.

To return to the central mast, which must also form the chassis. This is
double and opened out beneath as shown in Fig. 131, yz being a piece
similar to the sides, which completes, the triangle x y z and gives the
necessary rigidity. Attach this piece by first binding to its extremities
two strips of aluminium, or by preference very thin tinned iron, Tl and T2.
Bend to shape and bind to xy, xz as shown in Fig. 131.

[Illustration: FIG. 131.--Front elevation of chassis.]

[Illustration: FIG. l32.-Wheel for model aeroplane chassis.]

[Illustration: FIG. 133.--Plan of model aeroplane.]

The Wheels and Chassis.--WW are the two wheels on which the model runs.
They are made of hollow brass curtain rings, 1 inch in diameter, such as
can be bought at four a penny. For spokes, solder two strips of thin tinned
iron to the rings, using as little solder as possible. (Fig. 132.) To
connect these wheels with the chassis, first bind to the lower ends of xy,
xz two strips of thin tinned iron, T3 and T4, after drilling in them two
holes of sufficient size to allow a piece of steel wire of "bonnet pin"
gauge to pass freely, but not loosely, through them. Soften the wire by
making it red hot and allowing it to cool slowly, and solder one end of
this wire (which must be quite straight and 5-1/4 inches long) to the
centre of the cross pieces or spokes of one wheel. Pass the axle through
the holes in the ends of xy, xz, and solder on the other wheel. Your
chassis is then finished.

The rear skid (RS in Fig. 130) is attached to the central rod by gluing,
and drilling a hole through both parts and inserting a wooden peg; or the
upright may be mortised in. On no