rch of
the Madonna della Salute, so called because erected to the Virgin in
gratitude for the deliverance of the city from a pestilence, which she
miraculously drove into the Adriatic. It is remarkable for its
splendid pictures, most of them by Luca Giordano; and the superb high
altar. I think it was the Church of the Gesuata which astonished us
most. The whole of the inside walls and columns are encrusted with
Carrara marble inlaid with verd-antique, in a kind of damask pattern;
over the pulpit it fell like drapery, so easy, so graceful, so
exquisitely imitated, that I was obliged to touch it to assure myself
of the material. Then by way of contrast followed the Church of San
Giorgio Maggiore,--one of Palladio's masterpieces. After the dazzling
and gorgeous buildings we had left, its beautiful simplicity and
correct taste struck me at first with an impression of poverty and
coldness. At the Church of St. John and St. Paul is the famous
martyrdom, or rather assassination, of St. Peter Martyr, by Titian,
one of the most magical pictures in the world. Its tragic horror is
redeemed by its sublimity. Here too is a most admirable series of
bas-reliefs in white marble, representing the history of our Saviour,
the work of a modern sculptor. Here too the Doges are buried; and
close to the Church is the equestrian statue of one of the Falieri
family: near which Marino Faliero met the conspirators.

At the Frati is the grave of Titian: a small square slab covers him,
with this inscription:--

"Qui giace il gran Tiziano Vecelli.
Emulator dei Zeusi e degli Apelli."

there is no monument:--and there needs none.

It was, I think, in the Church of St. John and St. Paul, that I saw a
singular and beautiful altar of black touch-stone, used when mass is
said for the soul of an executed criminal.

This is all I can remember of to-day. I am fatigued, and my head
aches;--my imagination is yet dazzled:--my eyes are tired of admiring,
my mind is tired of thinking, and my heart with feeling.----Now for
repose.

27.--To-day we visited the Manfrini Palace, the Casa Pisani, the
Palazzo Barberigo, and concluded the morning in the colonnade of St.
Mark, and the public gardens. The day has been far less fatiguing than
yesterday: for though we have seen an equal variety of objects, they
forced the attention less, and gratified the imagination more.

At the Manfrini Palace there is the most valuable and splendid
collection of picture